Hairdressing is one of the oldest professions, dating back thousands of years to the ancient Egyptians and ancient Greeks. Back then, all hairdressers were known as barbers until the 20th century. In this feature we explore the history of hairdressing and how it has evolved over the years.
Ancient History
“Hairdressers have always been in society, but we don’t see it as a professional role until quite a lot later. In ancient societies like ancient Egypt and ancient Rome, the hairdresser was an important position and getting your hair done was an important thing in people's life. It was a very privileged role. In the same way as hairdressers now, they would have an intimacy with their clients,” shares The Hair Historian, Rachael Gibson.
In ancient Egypt the oldest tools discovered that were used for hairdressing were bone and wood combs and hairpins, with flint or sharp blades being used to cut hair. According to The Curationist, Ancient Egyptians used these tools “to remove unwanted hair, plus wigs and adornments to augment natural hair.” Typically hairstyles defined a person's social status from gender, age and status to class, sexuality, ethnicity, and ritual affinities (Fletcher 1995 ; Robins 1999 ; Tassie 2002 ). Hairdressers and barbers were divided into two categories: Private and State, and a hairdresser would be hired as part of their household or arrange for one to visit their home; poorer members of society would go to a traveling hairstylist. A barber would be tasked with using a razor to shave the head and body, whilst the hairdresser would use a razor, tools, combs, hair pins/ornaments and ointments, oils, creams etc. to cut, style and dress the hair and wigs.
Much like ancient Egypt, hairstyles (or lack of) were a sign of status and wealth in ancient Greece. Hairdressers were called kekryphaloplokoi and hair was often styled with fine braids that were decorated with headbands and other accessories. Men also took the time to have their hair intricately coiled and cropped. The most well-known hairstyle from this time was the lampadion, a bun styled on one side of the head and to style straight hair into waves, hairdressers would use red-hot rods called a calamistrum.
Like in ancient Greece, slaves and servants in ancient Rome performed the role of hairdressers (kupasis). Men who did not have their own private hairdresser would visit a barber known as a tonsor who would work from a barbershop or in the street. A popular hairstyle for women was for the hair to be arranged in a tight bun on top of the head paired with micro braids and adorned with accessories. Rachael also shares: “Romans would have brought their enslaved people from Northern Europe, and quite often they would look for servants who had blonde hair, which was desirable at the time, so they would cut their hair off and use it for their own wig.”
The Middle Ages
Kimberley Knight writes that during the Middle Ages hair was charged with cultural meaning, possessing qualities that allowed it to be a tool of social action – it was detachable, renewable and could be manipulated. Again, in the medieval period, “hair was variously deployed as a marker of status, race, physical maturity, and sexual virility.” Noblewomen often had their hair elaborately styled, braided, or adorned with veils, ribbons, and jewelled accessories. Monastic communities kept hair simple, with shaved crowns (tonsures) for clergy as a sign of religious devotion. Haircare often relied on natural oils, combs, and even herbal treatments, with professional hairdressers serving wealthy households.
The Renaissance
During this period, hairdressing became an artistic expression of beauty, wealth, and status. Women’s hairstyles featured intricate braids, curls, and adornments such as pearls, ribbons, and jewelled nets. Wigs and hairpieces gained popularity among the upper classes and haircare included scented oils and powders to maintain hygiene, with professional hairdressers catering to the aristocracy and wealthy.
The 17th Century
The term "hairdressing" was first coined in the 17th century, stemming from the French word coiffure and the practice of ‘dresser les cheveux’, meaning ‘to arrange the hair.’ Rachael tells us: “An interesting person at this point is the French hairdresser, Monsieur Champagne, who was the first ‘celebrity hairdresser.’ He opened salons in Paris and was the high society go-to hairdresser. This is when it became a job that people would aspire to. It takes until the 1800s when hairdressing becomes a bit more accessible, where hair salons are for most people in society not just the elite.”
In the 17th century, women’s hairstyles grew increasingly elaborate, with towering creations known as fontanges becoming fashionable, often decorated with lace, feathers, jewels, and ribbons. Men’s hair was styled in long, flowing curls or waves, sometimes natural or enhanced with wigs, for those in the upper classes. Powdered wigs, often white or pastel, were a sign of elegance and status, with both men and women using hair powder to achieve the desired aesthetic.
The 18th Century
Hairdressing became much more of an art form, particularly among European aristocracy. Women’s hairstyles grew increasingly elaborate and voluminous, with towering, powdered wigs adorned with feathers, ribbons, jewels, and even miniature scenes (think Queen Charlotte’s Bridgerton birdcage). These creations were known as poufs, and symbolised status, wealth, and creativity. The profession of hairdressing thrived, with hairdressers like Marie Antoinette’s stylist, Léonard Autié, achieving celebrity status. The 18th century marked a significant time in hair fashion, particularly in the French court.
19th Century
The 19th century saw a shift towards simpler and more natural hairstyles, influenced by Romanticism and the Industrial Revolution. Women’s hair was often styled in smooth buns, braids, or curls, with ornaments like combs, ribbons, and flowers for subtle decoration. Men moved away from wigs, embracing natural hair that was short, neatly combed, and often paired with facial hair such as sideburns or beards. This period of innovation saw the invention of tools such as curling irons and improved haircare products. By the late 1800s, the growing popularity of salons helped make hairdressing as a profession accessible to a wider audience.
20th and 21st Centuries
The 20th and 21st centuries brought diversity and innovation in hairdressing, driven by cultural movements, technology, and personal expression. “We start seeing salons appear everywhere. The Victorians were such innovators, people could use machines (hairdryers, perm machines) and hairdressers could perform professional services that you couldn’t at home,” says Rachael adding: “Women started getting their hair cut for the first time – before then if you were getting a haircut, it was a trim to keep your hair tidy. Women started getting proper haircuts and salons started expanding what they're offering to people. Before then people would go to the barbers because they were the only people who knew how to cut and work with short hair. Hairdressers had to upskill so they could learn to know how cut hair.”
Early 20th-century trends ranged from the short, sleek bobs of the 1920s to the glamorous curls of Hollywood in the 1940s. The post-war era introduced bold experimentation, from the beehives of the 1960s to the punk-inspired spiked and dyed styles of the 1980s. In the 21st century global influences and eco-friendly haircare products have transformed the industry, making it more inclusive and innovative than ever. Hairdressing today celebrates individuality and creative freedom, blending artistry with practicality.
