Not a day goes by when we don't hear about a new take on the 'classic' fringe, so we thought it was high time to outline the different types of fringes that your clients might be asking for, who they will suit and the maintenance required to keep them in good nick.
Image credit: Tracey Hughes
The Blunt Fringe is arguably the most conventional type of fringe. Suiting most face shapes, the Blunt Fringe complements different facial features. Gráinne McClelland, owner of Gráinne McClelland Hair, states: "A Blunt Fringe will complement the balance and symmetry of oval face shapes, whilst it can add structure and elongate a round face shape. If the Blunt Fringe is left slightly longer, it can soften the angles and definition of a square face."
To recreate, cut your client’s hair straight across their forehead without adding any layers. Carolyn Newman, international educator and colour expert adds: "Take enough hair to create a full heavy fringe, and hold your comb loosely when cutting - you don't want to create any graduation." Also, it's useful to cut the hair while it's dry, so you are able to see how the hair will fall. Then, finish with a slight curve. "I always follow the client's natural brow for this," says Loretta Marie, owner of Loretta Marie Hair. This results in a polished and sleek appearance.
For clients with curly or Afro-textured hair, consult with them first to find out whether they will be wearing the Blunt Fringe straight or curly, this will determine how long you cut the fringe. Then, make sure you are both agreed on how the shape will turn out. "On Afro-textured hair, I tend to cut the hair free hand with zero tension, working with the natural hair fall," Loretta Marie comments.
Meanwhile, clients can add a little edge and texture with the Choppy Fringe. Although the Choppy Fringe may seem similar to the Blunt Fringe at first, you must cut the bottoms and depths of the fringe in slightly varying lengths to create that mismatched, alternative look. Carolyn Newman suggests point cutting with scissors or razor cutting for ultimate texture and choppiness.
Image credit: Tim Scott-Wright
For an even more unique approach, upgrade the Blunt Fringe to Micro or Baby Bangs. Instead of cutting the fringe to eyebrow length, cut your client’s hair so it just reaches the middle of their forehead. "For a Micro Fringe, I always reach for a clipper or trimmer," Loretta Marie advises. "Combing the hair down and then pressing the clipper into the hair gives it a blunt look, which you can soften afterwards if you prefer." You could use the choppy cut technique for this fringe too.
Image credit: Janene Hawkins-Bush
Your clients need to be aware that these three fringes require regular washing as they will be exposed to oils from your client's forehead. Plus, they will need to return to your salon for regular trims to ensure the hair doesn't cover or irritate their eyes. Although, Choppy Fringes may be left longer to emphasise the dishevelled, mismatched look.
Inspired by the 70s, Curtain Bangs are a popular style with a middle parting. Conventional Curtain Bangs are characterised by their feathered cut and short strands around the face. Their soft appearance is complementary to clients' face shapes and bone structures, especially round faces.
A tip for all fringes - make sure you initially cut them too long rather than too short. "Although this may seem obvious, it's always worth remembering. You can always trim more, but you can never put back," says Gill Berry, JOICO EMEA Ambassador.
With Curtain Bangs, volume is key. "Using a hairdryer and a roundbrush, smooth over the hair and then use a hair control paste to emphasise the definition of the fringe," Karen Thomson, owner of Kam Hair and Body Spa and AVEDA UK Artistic Team Member, suggests. "Make sure you use the round brush to add as much volume to the roots as possible."
Bottle Top Bangs
Bottle Top Bangs are inspired by Curtain Bangs, however the hair length differs. The top of the fringe features shorter pieces of hair, whilst the side of the fringe is longer – around the length of your client’s eyes and cheeks. The placement of the hair is perhaps more complementary to certain face shapes. Leo McCallum, owner of ROAR Hair and Beauty, describes: "Bottle Top Bangs are wider at the centre and taper. They complement round or square faces by balancing proportions or adding dimension."
Both Curtain Bangs and Bottle Top Bangs are relatively low maintenance as they blend into the hair as they grow out. Plus, they suit a relaxed and tousled appearance. So, clients will only need to return to the salon for trims to ensure the look stays tidy and their at-home maintenance doesn't become unmanageable.
Wispy Fringes share the feathered softness of Curtain Bangs, however Wispy Fringes are not worn in a middle part. They have sections of hair which are thinner and more separated from each other. The result? A relaxed and subtle look which means clients can get the fringe effect without committing to a full, thick fringe. Oval and heart-shaped faces perhaps benefit the most from Wispy Fringes. Emma Simmons, owner of Salon 54, explains: "The delicate strands of hair frame oval faces beautifully, and the wispy effect softens the look of the forehead on clients with heart-shaped faces."
To recreate, ensure you give it a soft finish. "Take a small triangular section across the front fringe area, and hold it at the tip of your client's nose," Emma Simmons recommends. "Then, with gentle and soft pressure, slide your razor up and down in a peeling motion above your thumb until the length is removed. If your client has Afro-textured hair, make sure the cut is tailored to their natural curl pattern."
Richard Scorer, Creative Director at Haringtons, adds: "When blow drying, use a round brush and a nozzle on your hairdryer. This will smooth that cuticle down and give shine. Finish with some serum to create separation and extra shine." For maximum effect on Afro-textured hair, blow dry with a diffuser.
On the whole Shaggy Fringes provide an edgier look. With thicker sections of hair than the Wispy Fringe, the look is layered and tousled, embracing all natural hair textures. This means that it’s often best to cut your client’s hair dry if they have curly or Afro-textured hair, so that the result is as accurate as possible.
To construct the look, part the front triangular section down the middle into two. Then, Emma Simmons suggests: "Comb the left section forwards and flat, and direct this over to the opposite cheekbone. Maintain tension and keep the section close and flat to the face. Then, cut it at 45 degrees, or similar to the angle of the cheekbone, to the desired length. Then, do the same to the section on the other side." Follow by adding texture with scissors or the tip of a razor.
Texture is crucial to the finish of the look. Richard Scorer advises: "Adding mousse into the hair and pushing the cuticle the other way creates great texture, as well as dry shampoo for a matte finish." To define the fringe, you can use non-marking clips.
Richard continues to say that the best way for clients with Afro-textured hair to incorporate Shaggy Bangs into their look is through wearing the Wolf Cut: "In my opinion, the Wolf Cut looks its best when it's on curly hair."
Shaggy Bangs are ideal for clients who want a low maintenance style, as they suit a dishevelled look. Similarly, the Wispy Fringe is simple for clients to maintain and style at home. Although, they will need to return to your salon every 4-6 weeks for a trim.
Celebrities are always rocking fringes and trying out different adaptations of them, have you seen Kate Middleton's new fringe?