James Earnshaw talks about the role of AI in hair colour trends and the power of a colour transformation...
What do you love most about being a colourist?
I love the fact that we live in a really playful time – there are so many colours out there to create, from natural tones to more vibrant colours. This gives me so much variety in the work I get to create.
What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?
I actually think we’re living in a time where anything could come back round again, but I will admit that I don’t miss un-toned highlights.
Are there any colour trends you’d like to bring back?
I can’t believe I’m saying this, but I’m actually enjoying the calico hair trend that’s come back into fashion. It’s hard to get right, but when it is done correctly it looks great.
What are the challenges facing colourists right now?
I think AI and celebrity inspirations are making clients ask us to achieve the impossible, but it’s up to us as colour professionals to guide them on what is and isn’t possible and what's more realistic for them.
What do you think will be the next big colour trend?
I think AI-inspired hair colour, but made realistic. I'm thinking hair colour that has a lot of dimensions, really unique tonalities and highs and lows that almost looks unreal because it’s so shiny and premium looking.
What colour techniques are you known for?
I would say colour transformations is my big thing. I'm known for a lot of lightening and creative toning, creating perfectly balanced hair that looks playful but still sexy and premium.
What colour transformation are you most proud of?
There are so many different colour transformations that I love, so it’s really hard to choose... I think maybe a pastel, multi-tonal bob I did in Athens, Greece for a show. It was creative and super sexy.
What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?
Practice and practice, but make sure to learn your colour theory too. It’s not just about the practical skills, it’s about the knowledge of what you’re using and why.
What is the biggest lesson you’ve learnt from being a colourist?
I've learnt that you really can change someone’s life with a hair colour transformation, and always remember to strand test!
The inspiration for this look was to keep it simple and beautiful; thinking about how the sun reflects on the hair to enhance warm copper tones.
REFLECTIONS
This was inspired by the Mugler Alien campaign for 2024 – a return to cooler, edgier colour, with blocked pastels contrasting against the depth.
OUT OF THIS WORLD
Playful and soft, I wanted this to be the perfect rosé blonde – not too pink, but not too blonde – so i kept it really soft.
JUST WANNA HAVE FUN
I wanted a super expensive, luxury finish here, so I intermixed green into the copper to give it a rich tone.
IT'S GIVING...LUXE
