There are countless videos on TikTok discussing protein overload in hair and the negative effects this can have. Perhaps your clients have expressed worry around hair products and treatments due to this? To help debunk the digital drama, HJ chatted to some industry experts to get the lowdown on potential protein overload…
What is protein overload and how does it happen?
As a stylist you’ll know that hair is made of keratin, a type of protein. Through heat damage, bleaching and smoothing treatments, these proteins can become damaged and cause hair to decline in health.
“Protein-rich treatments like hair masks, leave-in products and bond-building haircare lines, are go-to methods for repairing damaged keratin bonds at home. But when protein builds up on hair shafts without enough moisture, strands can become stiff, dry and more prone to snapping – this is protein overload,” explains Nicole Petty, hair expert at Milk & Blush. “Overuse of bond and protein-building treatments is the typical cause of this, but it can also be caused when clients receive a professional keratin treatment and then use protein-heavy products at home, not knowing they’re doing more harm than good.”
INNOluxe founder, Jez Barnett, adds: “Even if your clients have never coloured or heavily styled their hair, you’d still get some damage. All sorts of factors, from brushing too much to our great British weather, can weaken the strength of your hair.”
What are the key signs of protein overload?
- Dry and brittle texture: Hair may feel rough and almost straw-like in texture. It may also feel hard or crunchy.
- Lack of elasticity: Healthy hair should stretch slightly when wet, but protein-heavy hair will break easily or feel stiff.
- Dull appearance: Hair should appear shiny and smooth, but hair that appears matte and frizzy could mean it’s dealing with too much protein.
- Regular shedding and breakage: You may notice more frequent shedding while washing and brushing clients’ hair, and some sections of hair may have broken pieces.
- Plenty of tangles: Hair that’s drowning in protein often knots much more easily and can prove difficult to detangle.
A simple way to test hair for evidence of protein overload is to conduct a quick stretch test. Take a small section of wet hair and gently pull it apart – if it stretches and bounces back, it has a healthy balance of keratin and moisture. If the strand barely stretches and snaps quickly, it shows that the hair lacks moisture and may be coated with too much protein.
How To Treat Protein Overload
Protein overload is reversible with the right treatments and actions. Dr Ali Syed, founder of Avlon, recommends clarifying shampoo: “These will help deplete the build-up of proteins from hair. It may take a few shampoo treatments before the build-up is eliminated. It is important to use clarifying shampoos that utilise sulphate-free detergents and moisturising ingredients. Also, avoid other aftercare products that contain proteins for a significant number of weeks until the protein build-up is eliminated from the hair.”
You should also emphasise to your client that they must stop using protein-based products at home immediately. “Ask them if they know which products they’re using so you can check ingredient lists and make sure no sneaky protein-based ingredients are still being used,” says Nicole. “Key ingredients that will further damage locks include hydrolysed keratin, collagen, amino acids and soy and wheat-based proteins.”
Restoring moisture and hydration is also key to bringing protein-overloaded hair back to life. Moisture-rich treatments, conditioners and leave-in treatments will be essential, especially products that feature nourishing ingredients like glycerine, aloe vera, coconut oil, argan oil and avocado.
Additionally, ends are easily prone to breakage and splitting when hair contains too much protein, so a trim will likely be in order. Some clients may not want to lose length, so it’s important to explain that removing all the damage will help hair grow back healthier.
Discuss how much needs to be cut, and if necessary, find a compromise. If two or three inches need to be cut and your client is anxious about it, compromise and cut off an inch and a half instead. Some damage is better than lots of damage!
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Image credit: Fabriq
