Once associated with the colour pattern of cat fur, calico hair has quickly become one of the most talked about hair colour trends in salons and online. With Google searches for calico hair increasing in popularity, this bold colour technique is catching the eye of clients seeking a personalised look that stands out from the crowd.
This versatile colour trend suits a variety of different skin tones, hair types and face shapes and is perfect for clients with warmer skin tones as the warmer colours harmonise beautifully with this skin tone. The calico hair colour trend also works well for those with a cooler skin tone – helping their features to pop and brighten their appearance.
So, how does this trend translate to your clients, and how can you achieve the perfect calico hair colour?
What is Calico Hair?
The calico hair trend involves colouring different sections of the hair to create a striking and unique pattern.
“Calico hair colour is actually a subtrend, or nano trend, that stems from a blend of two popular shades: Sunflower Blonde and Cinder Toffee Brunette," explains Tom Smith, International Colour Director at evo haircare. "The result is a high-contrast, textured colour design that combines these tones.”
Amelia Evans, Artistic Director at HARE & BONE, adds that the calico hair trend is also influenced by the resurgence of Y2K fashion and beauty.
"It features bold, chunky sections of black or deep brown, reds and coppers, and blondes. Previously known as Spice Girl or Geri highlights, this block-placement technique has been a major trend among our clientele at HARE & BONE over the past year."
Why Is Calico Hair Trending?
Reminiscent of the DIY hair trend, which Louis Byrne, celebrity session hairdresser, describes as: “Anti-perfection—being bold, fearless, and owning how you want to look and feel,” the calico hair trend appeals to clients who enjoy creative and individual styles. Tom adds: “Warm tones are an overarching macro trend right now, and for those looking to make a bold statement, calico hair is a great choice!”
How Can You Achieve Calico Hair?
Safy B, Owner of Safy B’s Salon, tells us that when it comes to calico hair, it’s all about keeping it soft and patchy in the prettiest way, and customised to each person. "I’d start with a good consultation with the client to pick out a dreamy palette, usually soft blondes, warm coppers, muted browns, whatever suits their skin tone and vibe best.”
Expert Techniques and Tips
The placement of colours is typically asymmetrical or in bold blocks, mimicking the randomness of calico cat fur. “I like to use the triangle technique, with the top point of the triangle near the parting, to make the placement slightly less intense,” says Amelia, explaining that this approach makes the trend more wearable and easier for clients to grow out. "By strategically placing the colours, you can refresh the style for a second time and simplify following your previous sectioning patterns." For Safy, it's all about personalisation. She explains: “I would take into account if my client wanted a really soft, seamless blend of colour, or if they were feeling a bit more fancy and wanted something bolder, more like the 90s blocky highlight style that’s making a comeback with this look. It’s all about tailoring the technique to match their vibe!”
Bold shades associated with this trend include black or dark brown, orange, copper or red, and blonde or white. Expanding on the colour palette, Tom shares: “It can be achieved by using trending golden-based shades in contrasting panels, carefully considering where to cast light and shadow throughout the base of the haircut."
When it comes to toning, Safy recommends: "Using a toner or gloss to melt everything together… This makes sure the finish is super seamless but still shows off all the lovely dimensions. It’s such a playful look, perfect for anyone wanting something creative but still really wearable!”
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