What is the 5.5cm haircut rule – and would you use it?
Published
20th Jan 2023
by charlottegw
You might have seen the 5.5cm haircut rule popping up on TikTok and Instagram, but we're here to tell you what the experts really think.
What is the 5.5cm rule?
First things first, let's get into what this 'rule' actually is. Sources say it's a 'method' for finding out what length of haircut is most flattering and that it originated from John Frieda salons. What to do- First, place your client in front of the mirror.
- Take a pencil and place it horizontally below their chin.
- Now the ruler comes into play: Place it at a right angle to the pencil and push it to the level of the earlobe.
- Measure the distance from the earlobe to the chin vertically downwards.
What the Experts Think
Sure the 5.5cm haircut rule is all over TikTok at the moment (the channel has had a lot of say in hair trends recently), but we always want to know what the professional opinion is on the method. "In all honesty, it’s not a method that I personally use, although I have heard this doing the rounds recently, especially via social media. For me and my team, we work with the client based on their face shape, face length and the look they are going for, which is adapted to suit them and their hair vision. Being very technical, it is very important to get the balance right between the finished length of the cut and the overall shape – but with continuous education his can be mastered." Tracey Ann Smith, ASP Global Ambassador and Founder of French & Ivi"I love that people are experimenting with this! Face shapes are so important when choosing the right style for you and at ROAR that’s one of the fundamental parts of us designing your haircut. The 5.5 rule is one way to see if you would suit short hair but remember rules are made to be broken! There are so many other factors to take into consideration like how you maintain your hair at home, defining features, hair growth patterns and personal style. I think anyone can have short bob, medium or long hair styles as long as the shape is just right for the face! Plus, if you are really curious but don’t want to take the plunge, wigs are your best friend!"
Brian Leo McCallum, owner of Roar Hair and Beauty Salon Group
"Every hairdresser has their own way and own method of how they cut hair, and their own formulation of how they get their client to the hair goal. Every individual is different, every cut looks different on every client therefore I use my own skill and experience when cutting their hair to achieve the best look and outcome possible for the client in the chair. Here at Rush we pride ourselves on our educational offerings, allowing our team to master the skills in cutting and we provide them with expert foundations in order to build their own skills on and develop their own way of cutting."
Andy Heasman, International Creative Director, Rush Hair
"This has been something that has only recently come to light thanks to TikTok and a viral video – it’s crazy. It is not a formula I follow as I tend to work my cutting techniques based on the client as an individual. There is not a ‘one size fits all’ formula when cutting hair and I prefer to work bespoke."
Ainsley Gray, F&M Hairdressing
"In my humble opinion, the rule makes sense mathematically, however I believe that our consultation as hairstylists delves much further. We not only take into consideration their face shape and bone structure, but also key facial features. I always take into consideration if they would they feel more comfortable exposing or softening strong features, what their lifestyle is, if they require a high or low maintenance hairstyle, not to mention the hair’s condition and texture. Should we take this theory into consideration during a consultation? Absolutely, but always be mindful of all the other key points during a consultation."
Alex Thaddeus, Owner of Alex Thaddeus Hairdressing
"I think the latest 5.5cm haircut rule is more of a fad than a rule we should follow. When it comes to thinking about what length of hair works for each client, there’s lots to take into account in addition to the distance between the earlobe and chin as the 5.5cm rule suggests. You need to consider face shape, hair type, hair texture and lots more. As a general rule of thumb, clients can use this method at home to find out if they would theoretically suit short or long hair but I wouldn’t suggest it be used as the deciding factor."
Simon Hill, owner of Sesh Hairdressing
Whatever your opinion on the 5.5cm rule there's no denying that face shape is crucial for a haircut – but at the end of the day it takes a lot more than a ruler to create the perfect hairstyle for a client. Professional stylists have years of education and training under the belt, the skills for a thorough consultation and a well-trained eye that knows instinctively what their client will love.