Step by step: chocolate colour and crop


Take a slightly curved horseshoe section at the low-recession around the head.
Start the cut at the sides along the horseshoe section. Comb the hair to its natural fall, elevate to 45 degrees and point-cut parallel to the parting to eliminate the length and create the perimeter shape.
Continue working behind the ears using the same method until the centre back is reached establishing the graduation weight line around the head.
Once the underneath area is established, channel-cut to diffuse the graduation weight line.

Repeat the same technique until the centre top is reached. Comb sections vertically to the part, elevate to 45 degrees and point-cut for softness.
Take a triangular section to separate the fringe area. Comb the hair to its natural fall and point-cut at low elevation square across to the other side.

Take a radial parting from the crown to the top of the ears. Work with pivoting sections from the centre back towards the sides. Comb and elevate each section to 90 degrees and slice through to remove weight.

Continue in front of the ears on both sides of the head.

Blow-dry the hair, flat iron and personalise the shape by channel-cutting.

Begin by taking a crescent shape from the top crown to the fringe area 1" from the hairline and secure with sectioning clips. Take a profile section towards the nape and then a radial section from ear to ear to create four sections.
Start the colour application at the crown and working with horizontal partings apply formula 1 to the new growth area from the centre profile to the radial section, repeating the technique on the opposite side. Once the new growth area is complete, apply formula 1 to the hair lengths and ends before progressing to the hairline and profile.

From the radial section, work vertical sections towards the hairline and the profile, applying formula 1 to the new growth area by taking ½" slices (repeat on opposite side).& nbsp;
Once the new growth is complete on both sides, apply formula 1 to the lengths and ends, then isolate the sections using meche strips.

Starting with the crescent shape, take slight diagonal sections in ½" slices applying formula 1 to the new growth, and then, with a blending technique, apply formula 2 to the lengths and ends repeating on the next section.
Taking the third section of the crescent section, apply formula 1 to the new growth and using the blending technique work formula 3 to the lengths and ends.

Continue working the same blending technique: two sections of formula 2 through the midlengths and ends and one section formula 3 through the midlengths and ends; always applying formula 1 to the new growth area. Continue taking these sections until the area is complete. Protect the skin using meche strips. Process the colour for 35 minutes, then rinse and remove the colour.
Tone the crescent section with formula 4 using horizontal partings. Once completed, process for up to 15 minutes then rinse off and remove.