London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 brought updos and a continued resurgence for sleek, glamourous styling to the runway. Paired with bold hair accessories it seems like the updo really is having its moment.
Take a look at Hairdressers Journal International’s highlights...
EMILIA WICKSTEAD
Hair Lead: Soichi Inagaki with Bumble and bumble
Emilia Wickstead’s AW25 collection draws inspiration from The Birds (1963) and the women whose creative brilliance shaped its haunting yet romantic legacy. The inspiration for the hair took techniques and classic inspired looks from the 1960s, like the beehive with modern shaping.
GET THE LOOK
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Step 1: Blast the hair with Bumble and bumble Thickening Full Form Mousse mixed with Bumble and bumble Surf Spray for adding guts and begin sectioning and back combing.
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Step 2: Once the hair has been teased working your way up to the crown, add Bumble and bumble Brilliantine on the surface of the hair to smooth and give it a nice, elegant shine. This will keep volume intact while creating a clean look.
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Step 3: Tuck the ends under and secure with bobby pins to shape into the beehive silhouette. Finish with Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode for ultimate hold to keep everything in place.
SIMONE ROCHA
Hollie Smith, Hair Lead with Bumble and bumble.
For the hair, we wanted no two looks to appear the same, ensuring each had breathability and airiness - whilst still staying true to Simone’s signature style. For 15 models we created a bun look that peppered throughout the show, that was lady on top and pushed off the face, but then ‘teenage’ on the bottom - with many styles incorporating two twisted bunches. We loved incorporating model’s natural cowlicks and tendrils that occur around the hairline and wanted to enhance these, almost creating a bit of a ‘home-made’ look, not being too perfect in any way.
GET THE LOOK:
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Step 1: We didn’t want it to look like there was product sitting in the hair. To get this type of subtle starchiness and hold, we used Bumble and bumble Thickening Spray mixed with Bumble and bumble Surf Spray all through the top, using a vent brush to blow dry increasing volume and lift at the front – looking like your fingers had pushed the hair back off the face.
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Step 2: To create the buns at the bottom, we grabbed the bunches and twisted them, setting in place using jumbo rubber band elastics, like it was something they had at home already and had put up themselves.
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Step 3: On the short and coily looks, we mixed Bumble and bumble Curl Gel Pomade and Bumble and bumble Hairdressers Invisible Oil – which is a product I absolutely love to create subtle movement and hold, yet not look like there’s any product sitting in the hair.
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Step 4: To finish the look, we used Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode to set the styles, which is such a great working spray that has strong buildability, lasting on set for over six hours without looking overworked at all.
Harris Reed
Dyson Hair Professional, Hair Lead Ali Pirzadeh
This season, Dyson Hair Professional, was proud to collaborate with renowned hairstylist Ali Pirzadeh for the Harris Reed AW25 collection: Gilded.
"For the Harris Reed AW25 hair look, I drew inspiration from the sharp lines and cage-like shapes of the garments. We designed the hairstyles to push the hair straight away from the face, adding lift around the temples to enhance the overall silhouette using the Dyson Supersonic r™ professional hair dryer and Dyson Chitosan™ styling range. The result is a graphic ponytail or a sculptural bun - hairstyles that echo the collection’s intricate lines. This collaboration not only showcases the artistry of hair design but also redefines the relationship between fashion and self-expression, making hair an integral part of the overall narrative."
DREAMING ELI
Revlon Professional UK & Ireland, Hair Lead Danilo Giangreco
Danilo Giangreco, Artistic Ambassador For Revlon Professional UK & Ireland used Revlon Professional products to encapsulate, the Dreaming Eli collection’s evocative theme—women emerging from a house on fire. This was seamlessly mirrored in the hair looks, which embodied raw energy, controlled chaos, and a sense of resilience. Texture was at the forefront, with models’ hair prepped using Revlon Professional Modular Mousse, allowing for effortless manipulation and a dynamic finish. The result? A dishevelled yet purposeful aesthetic, echoing the collection’s mood of disruption and rebirth. The hair direction played with disruptive volume, crimped textures, and artfully undone updos, enhanced using Revlon Professional Style Masters Reset to create texture and volume.
Danilo Giangreco commented: “We wanted to encapsulate the feeling of transformation, resilience, and raw beauty. Using Revlon Professional products to encapsulate, the collection’s evocative theme—between my heart and ribs, a beautiful story telling about the complexity of the human body, organic and imperfect, yet nothing short of perfect—was seamlessly mirrored in the hair looks, which embodied raw energy, controlled chaos, and a sense of resilience"
PAUL COSTELLOE
TONI&GUY, Hair Lead Cos Sakkas with TONI&GUY Session Team
Global Creative Director and British Hairdresser of the Year, Cos Sakkas, led the TONI&GUY Session Team and crafted a refined, yet powerful hair look that perfectly echoed the collection’s equestrian-inspired theme. A sleek, disciplined ponytail served as the foundation, embodying the precision and elegance of dressage, while intricate micro-French braids were seen down the back. At the nape, a distinctive bonding wrap detail added a sculptural element, reinforcing the collection’s focus on strength and structure.
MAXIMILLION RAYNOR
TONI&GUY, Hair Lead Efi Davies with TONI&GUY Session Team
Efi Davies, Avant-Garde Hairdresser of the Year 2024, led the TONI&GUY Session Team in creating an innovative, high-fashion style for the Maximilian Raynor show. By enhancing each model’s natural texture, the team achieved a look that was organic, whilst embodying a futuristic edge. A standout element was the use of latex caps, adding an avant-garde, alienesque quality that reinforced the collection’s visionary theme.
TOLU COKER
TONI&GUY, Hair Lead Efi Davies with TONI&GUY Session Team
International Artistic Director and current Avant-Garde Hairdresser of the Year led the TONI&GUY Session Team in creating playful double knot braids that embodied ritualistic and symbolic nature of the collection. The hair had a structured yet ethereal finish, evoking the intertwining of tradition and transformation and looked to the Yoruba and European Tailoring influences of the collection.
DI PETSA
TONI&GUY, Hair Lead Efi Davies with TONI&GUY Session Team
International Artistic Director, Efi Davies led the TONI&GUY Session Team and created a sexually
charged, ethereal feel within the hair texture. Length was left very long to express desire,
allowing movement to take place and flow naturally. The team worked with the model’s
natural hair but also used wigs to extend the length.
ERDEM
Authentic Beauty Concept, Hair Lead Anna Cofone
GET THE LOOK
1. Prep and style using Hydrate Spray Conditioner, Hand and Hair Light Cream
and Glow Spray Serum to enhance shine and control flyaways. Spritz with
Hydrate Serum.
2. Lock in the look with Hand and Hair Light Cream, Airy Texture Spray and Dry
Shampoo.
Erdem created a collection infused with dreamy, painterly floral prints and intricate embellishments. Featuring delicate patterns and luxurious fabrics, the collection reimagines archetypal feminine silhouettes with a modern,
ethereal touch. Hair lead, Anna Cofone, brought Erdem’s vision to life using premium vegan haircare brand Authentic Beauty Concept to support the overall look. Anna explains the hair inspiration: “Erdem’s collection, inspired by Scottish painter Kaye Donachie, is a masterful play of beautiful patterns and sculptural shapes with exaggerated silhouettes. This allows the hair to remain simple - paired back yet elevated, polished and effortlessly chic. Each model embodies strength and confidence, looking like the best version of themselves - an extension of Erdem’s characters, forming an army of beautiful women. This look celebrates individuality by enhancing each model’s natural texture. A tailored approach ensures products are selected specifically for each model’s hair type. The key is minimal product use - creating a polished yet effortlessly soft finish"
Helen Anthony
INDOLA, Hair Lead Johanna Cree Brown
INDOLA was the official hair sponsor for Helen Anthony’s A/W25 Ready-to-Wear showcase. This season’s highly anticipated collection celebrates duality, inspired by the twin personalities of Gemini. The collection reflects Helen Anthony’s core values of craftsmanship, innovation, and diversity, while embracing contrasts and creative freedom. Lead Hair Stylist Johanna Cree Brown shares, “The inspiration was 70’s, as a designer Helen Anthony loves to reference that era and for this show he told me his theme was Gemini so I suggested creating dual personalities with the hair looks too. Like the Gemini sign, one twin is the impulsive twin that we styled with big, voluminous hair and the other twin is the curious twin with a cool girl mullet and curls. With the huge hair looks, we split into 4 characters – The Debbie after Debbie Harry, The Dolly after Dolly Parton, The Amy after Amy Winehouse and The Pammie after Pamela Anderson. For the cool hair look my inspiration was Nadia Lee Cohen, a British artist, film producer and character that’s super cool. This look is about creating shapes at the front of the hair, almost an anti-look to what the hair wanted to do, so the curls coming forward rather than back.” This dynamic range of hairstyles was achieved by Johanna and her team using key products from INDOLA’s professional range, which delivered both volume and definition to reflect each character’s distinct personality.
Looking for more inspo? Take a look backstage at LFWSS25