Launch: november's new products and treatments

SMART PLAYERS MOIRA PAULUSZ LOOKS AT SOME OF THE NEWLY-LAUNCHED PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS The approach of winter has seen the launch of a flurry of high-tech products formulated with intense, intelligent, active ingredients which, carried deep into skin by sophisticated systems, work to deliver visible results – and keep skin looking ever young. Most of the formulas are anti-ageing, and use anti-oxidants to maximise skin’s regenerative ability to restore and maintain its thickness; others address specific conditions that cause concern – among these are uneven pigmentation, adult acne, dry patches, premature wrinkles, and loss of skin density. Read on to find out about the latest offerings from:

* Darphin * ghd spa * Agera * Cosmeceuticals

Darphin has re-launched its three-strong Fibrogene line, with new ingredients, textures and packaging, along with a complementing aromatic care. Formulated with aromatic plants, the collection targets women with dry to very dry skin showing signs of premature ageing, such as fine lines and noticeable loss of density. Darphin's Nourishing Serum Dryness may be temporary (a consequence of extreme temperatures or hormonal changes, for example) or ongoing (a genetic predisposition to unbalanced lipid levels, resulting in an uncomfortable tightness). Other characteristics are lower levels of water, moisture and lipids, and the breakdown of collagen and elastin, with the consequent lack of “plumpness”, and a paper-like appearance.

Each product’s formula complements the others, working to nourish and renew skin’s essential lipid balance, as well as building up moisture reserves and repairing the natural barrier for a smooth youthfulness.

Key ingredients include: shea butter (protective and regenerating); vitamin F (from thistle oil, it strengthens and repairs skin’s natural barrier); oligopeptide (a fragment of elastin, it helps smooth the appearance of wrinkles); and siegesbeckia orientalis extract (helps maintain collagen levels). The result is supple, conditioned skin, says the company. While Darphin’s products target skin, ghd spa (the spa division of Leeds-based haircare company, ghd) is a range of scalp and haircare products and therapies developed for spa clients. The products and treatments appear similar to haircare giant L’Oréal’s Kerastase rituals, which are claimed to deliver customised solutions for “every hair condition”. ghd spa treatments for hair ghd spa director Daniel Smith refutes the suggestion roundly. “The Kerastase concept was developed for hairdressers, and treatments consist of wash-off products, applied in the chair within a salon environment and to be combined with – or to enhance – a salon hair service. “The ghd spa concept was developed for spa therapists, and the prescriptive products and treatments are used within a spa environment to contribute to the spa experience of relaxation and therapy, and to enable clients to look good as well as feel beautiful on leaving.” VISIBLE RESULTS The treatments are described as a ‘facial for hair’, with exfoliation, cleansing, and massage of the scalp and upper body using aromatic oils part of the ritual. Adds Daniel: “Results are paramount to client satisfaction – which is why our restorative therapies work on mind and body, with the efficient products guaranteeing visible results.” Divided into four ranges (Immortal, Prayer, Saviour and Trinity), each addresses day-to-day needs of different hair types. The five in-spa treatments are: age-defying (rejuvenates), emergency rescue (repairs), daily defence (maintains hair’s vitality), combination (re-balances the scalp, nourishes mid-lengths, and conditions hair ends), and men’s experience (delivers instant results), and are backed by a six-week personalised homecare programme. For something different, check out Agera, a care collection flagged as being for all skin conditions. According to UK distributor Eden Aesthetics, it is primarily a retail line, with three collections formulated to combat problematic skin conditions: hyper-pigmentation, acne and ageing. The line is backed by several professional treatments, including an anti-ageing facial, a deep-cleansing facial for acne; and a number of skin peels. Agera for all skin conditions Bio-emulsion technology (minute particles encapsulate active ingredients) ensures ingredients penetrate skin’s deeper levels. Common to all the products are growth peptides (production declines as we age), which stimulate collagen and elastin production, making skin thicker and firmer; antioxidants to counteract and protect against free radical damage; retinol (a vitamin A derivative) to help reverse signs of ageing; and zinc- and titanium-based sunscreens. Products in the anti-ageing range use antioxidants to maximise skin’s regenerative ability to restore and maintain its thickness and resilience; those in the hyper-pigmentation category help reduce the activity of pigment-producing cells; while those under the acne banner target inflammation and help reduce and control blocked pores, bacteria and skin discolouration, says the company. FAST RESULTS Meanwhile, Cosmeceuticals is marketing two complementary anti-ageing systems. Priori Advanced AHA combines an LCA complex (a blend of pH-balanced lactic compounds consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate) with a multi-functional, anti-oxidant sequence that delivers a particular set of vitamins deep into skin via time-released liposomes for fast anti-ageing results. Priori idebenone superceuticals Lactic acid – an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) shown by clinical evidence to be a superior moisturiser to other AHAs since it helps increase hyaluronic acid deposition in skin – is key within the complex. Combined with vitamins A (enhances cell metabolism and increases cell turnover), C (stimulates collagen synthesis), E (protects cells), and pro-vitamin A (acts as a reservoir for vitamin A synthesis), it is said to provide maximum skin regeneration. Priori idebenone Superceuticals is based on idebenone – a bio-engineered, multi-functional Superceutical molecule said to keep the causes and effects of skin ageing in check. But what’s the difference between cosmeceutical and Superceutical products? “Cosmetics are products that cover up, fill in and hide, for example, make-up. Cosmeceuticals are products that impart a visible, lasting difference in skin via ingredients that fall between cosmetic and prescription strengths, and which act to block or correct some ageing-related pathways. They are both more potent and efficacious than conventional cosmetics,” says Dr Patrick Bowler, medical director of The Courthouse Clinics group and creator of the anti-oxidant Vitage range of skincare products.

“Superceuticals are defined as multi-functional cosmeceuticals – and idebenone is such a compound.”

Idebenone mimics co-enzyme Q10 (a vitamin-like anti-oxidant that boosts cellular activity) and is said to be the only anti-oxidant shown to correct oxidative stress (the major cause of skin ageing) on a cellular level by neutralising toxic free radicals, so allowing cells time to repair and regenerate. It also protects against environmental stress (which causes premature ageing), says cosmeceutical research scientist Joe Lewis, who was involved in the launch and development of AHAs as well as the Priori lines. With Christmas and the party season fast approaching, now is as good a time as any to get your clients’ skin into top condition.