Understanding undertones is essential when choosing a new hair colour. With summer influencing people to change up their hair, experts weigh in on the top things to consider when picking the right shade.
What is the biggest mistake colourists make when choosing a hair colour for a client's skin tone?
When it comes to blonde colours specifically, Cassie Clenshaw, freelance blonde specialist at The Hair Club London, says the biggest mistake is "failing to consult on vague client requests such as “ash” - our version of ash and a clients version of ash can be miles apart."
"When a client wants ash they usually just mean they don’t want “yellow” but they’ll then show you a picture of a bright buttery blonde," says Cassie, "which requires gold to formulate for luminosity, whereas going in with a straight ash can result in a darker, flatter blonde and an unhappy client!"
Colour expert Warren Edwards suggests the biggest mistake is following trends, rather than the person sitting in front of you. "Just because a particular blonde or copper is everywhere on social media doesn't mean it's going to flatter every client."
"Hair colour should enhance someone's natural features, not compete with them," syas Warren. "My aim is always to create a colour that makes the client look healthier, brighter and more confident rather than simply recreating a photo they've brought in."
For Holly Bullock, NXT Brand Ambassador, there can sometimes be a focus on what's trending, rather than what suits individual clients. "It’s important to take into consideration the clients natural skin tone, eye colour, and natural hair colour and that can help determine what’s going to suit the client best!"
How can a colourist tell whether a client needs a warmer or cooler hair colour?
Cassie looks at the natural undertone of her client's skin, using that to determine how light to go and the shade most suited to make their skin glow.
"Cooler skin can suit pearly, icy and paler beige shades and deeper skin suits caramel, golden or honey blondes. However, this isn’t set in stone and doesn’t mean you can’t do the opposite - you just need to make sure the tone doesn’t wash out their complexion," she says.
This skin tone "can absolutely work with warm, think champagne and buttery vanilla. A neutral skin tone can suit most shades - that’s when I look at eye colour. Eyes have flecks of warm and cool which can help you decide which tones to add to your formula to make them really pop."
Warren observes that it's a mix of experience and observation: "I look at their skin tone, eye colour and natural hair colour, but I also pay attention to how they wear makeup, the colours they naturally gravitate towards in their wardrobe and what makes them feel like themselves."
"Some people come alive with soft golden tones, while others suit cooler, ashier shades that make their complexion look fresh. The consultation is just as important as the technical side of colouring."
Holly says that looking at the clients’ natural features is the best way to determine what’s going to suit them.
"Skin tone, eye colour, natural hair base etc, will all give a good indication as to what’s going to suit the client best. If a client has naturally cooler skin and eyes, then cool tones will enhance this! Same goes with warmer skin tone and eyes: adding warmth to their colour will be really flattering."
Should a client's natural hair colour always influence the shade you choose?
Cassie explains that natural hair colour determines lift - a blonde on a dark base will lift differently to a lighter base and there’s underlying pigment that will either be neutralised or accentuated to achieve the target shade. I
"It’s also super important to consider depth - chasing brightness without keeping any dimension can flatten the result and wash out the clients features on any base."
For Warren, "your natural colour tells you a lot about what will look believable and harmonious. That doesn't mean you can't go dramatically lighter, darker or more fashion-forward, but understanding the client's natural base helps create a result that feels expensive and grows out beautifully.
"I think the most luxurious-looking hair is often the colour that looks like it could naturally belong to that person."
Holly believes that by choosing a colour that compliments their natural hair, the client will have an overall more polished and intentional result.
"Creating a cool based colour for a client with warm natural hair, will create an unflattering contrast and will also enhance regrowth and how the colour grows out."
How important is a client's lifestyle when recommending a new hair colour?
Very, according to our experts. "When I ask a client about their lifestyle I need to know how often they are willing or able to be in the salon - a busy lifestyle will be more suited to a lived in result that can be refreshed every 4-6 months," says Cassie.
There's no point creating a high-maintenance blonde if someone only wants to visit the salon three times a year, points out Warren.
"I always ask how often they're happy to come back, how much time they spend styling their hair and what their budget is for maintenance. The best colour isn't necessarily the most dramatic one, it's the one that still looks beautiful six or eight weeks later and fits seamlessly into their life."
"Lifestyle is everything when creating a bespoke colour for a client", agrees Holly.
"Asking a client questions such as their aftercare routine, any hobbies (particularly things like swimming!) and how often they would like to have it done, will all help in designing a personalised colour."
What questions should every stylist ask during a hair colour consultation?
Expert Stylist Laura Elliott, Head of Education at Neäl & Wølf, highlights the key things to consider when creating the ultimate hair transformation. It all comes down to skin undertones, eye colour, and the time of year to find the perfect hair colour for your client's skin tone.
“Understanding the variety of tones that sit within the hues of blonde, brown, and red and how they work with clients’ skin tone is important and can be the difference between the most flattering hair colour or a colour that washes them out."
"There are some clients who have a neutral skin tone and suit both warm and cool tones. When it comes to these skin tones, mixing colours that are both cool and warm whether it’s brunette, red, copper, or blonde really works,” says Laura.
For Cassie, it's important to ask every client when coming for a blonde shade to show her a picture: "There are so many different names for different blondes which are interpreted differently, so visuals are a must.
"Even if they show 3 pictures of 3 different shades, there will be something in those pictures that they like, and you can dissect each one to find out whether they are actually loving the colour of the hair, the placement of the blonde - and not just fixated on how pretty the model or celebrity looks in the picture."
Warren always wants to know what the client loves about their current hair and what they'd like to change.
"I ask about their colour history, how often they're happy to maintain it, how they style it day to day and whether they have any inspiration images," he says.
"Most importantly, I ask how they want to feel when they leave the salon. Whether the answer is more polished, more natural, more confident or more glamorous, that usually tells me far more than simply asking what colour they want."
Consultation is key to every colour appointment, highlights Holly.
"I will always begin by asking my client what they love and dislike about their hair, whether that be their natural or pre-existing colour. I’ll then move on to ask about their aftercare routine, hair colour history, heat use, how they style their hair, how often they want to return to the salon."
"...Understanding a client’s background is important as it can help us to advise them on whether we would suggest something more natural and lived in, or more of a statement colour."
Strawberry Blonde Hair for Fair Skin Tones
When looking to warm up their hair colour, red tones such as strawberry blonde are becoming increasingly popular with celebrities such as Khloe Kardashian and her fiery red look.
Strawberry blonde is an ideal shade that flatters light skin tones as the light, warm red hues counteract the cooler tones found in pale skin creating a warmer look.
“Strawberry blonde works especially well if your client already has light blonde hair. Adding a tint of strawberry will help to switch up your client’s style and isn’t a huge commitment for those not sure about the full red look,” Laura tells us. “This is the perfect shade for a rosy complexion as it brings out a youthful pink shine.”
Honey Blonde Hair for Medium Skin Tones
Honey blonde is a perfect combination of a warm, golden shade with hints of amber, blonde, chestnut, light brown and even a little bit of red which work together to create a warm and shiny blonde colour, most suited to those with medium skin tones and darker eyes as the lighter tones of honey brings out a healthy glow.
“Generally speaking, if your client has medium toned skin with olive undertones, try opting for warm hues like honey blonde – the golf will bring out the warmth they already have,” says Laura.
“Those with cool undertones will suit more cool toned shades such as an ash-based brunette. Too dark of a shade risks washing them out.”
Caramel Brown Hair for Dark Complexions
Caramel brown is a colour that complements deep complexions. For those with warm undertones including golden, yellow, peachy, or honey, this shade works well by bringing out the undertones creating a youthful look.
There are many variations to consider from beachy and sun kissed to deep brown with hues of chestnut giving it warmth for a spring look.
“Caramel brown is a really flattering colour for dark complexions as the golden undertones work with the toasty caramel colour for a brighter look,” says Laura.
“Adding caramel highlights to the hair will also create the illusion of shine, making the hair look healthier.”
Speaking of skin tone, have you read our Bespoke Blondes for Your Client's Skin Tone article?
