Choosing the right hairstyle for your clients' hair type and texture will make sure they leave the salon feeling and looking great. Which is why we went to the pros to get some tips!
"Some styles and hair types definitely require different cuts, whether that’s layering, removing excess weight or creating a different finish on the ends of the hair. A long, 90’s inspired style for example may look best with tapered ends and fine wispy layers," says Simon Hill, owner of SESH Hairdressing. "It’s our responsibility as the hairdresser to advise clients on the type of cut and style that will suit them. For example, a client with thicker coarse hair may need you to remove some excess weight in order for them to achieve the desired look. It all depends on each individuals hair type, texture and finished style."
Thin Hair
For clients with thin hair it's all about adding volume says Suzie McGill, Artistic Director at Rainbow Room International: "Those with thin hair should try to avoid longer styles that may lead to their ends looking straggly. However, if they do want to opt for a hairstyle that keeps their length, a blunt lob – similar to the blunt bob but left a little longer – is a great choice. Alternatively a shaggier haircut like the mullet is also a good option, whereby they can incorporate texture on the top of their hair and leave their ends longer."
Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons, adds: "The cut is something so important, more than any will know. It’s a vital part of the overall look and enhances the colour and the styling, in turn creating the ultimate hair goal for the client. Those with thinner hair want a cut that will give the look of thickness, a cut which ‘makes the hair’ appear thick. My recommendation would be a blunt cut – a blunt bob or choppy cut – to give a real strong line. This can be enhanced even further with use of texture or sea salt sprays which adds another dimension of ‘thickness’."
Thick Hair
Karen Thomson, owner of KAM Hair and Body Spa says the great thing about clients with thicker hair types is that they suit most hair cuts, it's just a case of reducing the weight. "They can simply add in some longer layers or have their hair cut with thinning shears to get rid of any excess weight. However, they may want to try and avoid haircuts that will make their hair look even thicker and bulky in appearance such as blunt and angled bobs and choppy haircuts like the pixie and shag. A great haircut choice for those with thick hair is the graduated bob, which will de-bulk the hair and allow it to be a lot more manageable."
There’s a fine line for thick, straight hair between over layering and under layering says London Hairdresser of the Year, Jordanna Cobella. "Generally speaking, wearing thick hair in a blunt cut can look triangular and have too much width to the overall silhouette. To soften this, I would advise soft layering around the perimeter of the haircut to round the shape and lighten the corners. Too much layering on this type of hair is not advised as this can have the tendency to appear thicker. Cutting techniques such as slicing, razoring and thinning scissors work beautifully for this type of hair."
Curly and Textured Hair
Darrel Starkey of Taylor’s Hair Studio says everyone should embrace their own hair vision. "As professionals it is our job to educate and guide clients to making the best possible decision for their hair type and texture."
For those with curly hair who want to enhance their curls and make a real statement out of them, Darrel recommends a shoulder length cut as a great way to frame the hair and the face. "It draws attention and is great for those with thick, gorgeous curls. Those who enjoy a shorter look can opt for a side parting, which enhances the curls and gives a feeling of thickness throughout. A small hair slide or accessory can completely transform this look."
Jordanna Cobella, agrees that for thin curly hair, above shoulder length is best. "Thin hair always appears thicker when it is resting above the shoulders. It’s best for clients to wear their hair in a blunt cut with a very subtle amount of layering to encourage the curl."
Wheres for thicker curly hair, longer lengths can help tame the width as the weight keeps it sitting flatter. "Layering is the key here to releasing the curls and keeping the shape rounded. Front layering and rounded layering around the back is vital for this hair length," Jordanna adds.