Taking a client from brunette to blonde is a delicate process at the most relaxed of times let alone being asked to achieve this in just 24 hours.
Who remembers when Kim Kardashian caused a stir at the 2022 Met Gala, not only for wearing that Marilyn Monroe dress but also for revealing she had transformed from a brunette to blonde in one sitting? Hairdressers everywhere were thanking Kim for showcasing the difficulties of going blonde in one sitting and helping them to show clients where it can go wrong.
Going blonde is a gradual process, particularly for clients with darker hair and requires careful planning in order to minimise damage and breakage - something clients are becoming increasingly concerned about when it comes to colour. "If a client comes to me and wants to go blonde in one sitting, we have a thorough consultation first before we agree on a plan of action," says Carolyn Chapman, Senior Colour Director and Education Coordinator at STIL Salon. Carolyn explains that wanting to go blonde in one sitting depends on the client's natural hair colour, if their hair is all natural (which makes it easier to lift) or if they have existing colour on their hair. "If they have colour on their hair it may not be achievable in one sitting. It's all determined by porosity and the sensitivity of hair. For me the condition is the number one priority. Shorter lengths of hair are younger and healthier, so with longer lengths of hair the ends will be over processed by the sun, wind or hair colour." Carolyn shares that she currently has a client with long, dark red her hair who is transitioning to blonde over a course of several months: "We want to really respect the condition. She's coming and seeing me every 8-10 weeks and I'm lifting her hair 2-3 levels at a time. She's going through the different colour phases and embracing that. If you have a client who is committed to the end result, is flexible and happy to wait so that she has great condition on her hair then you can do it that way."
In our article, 8 Tips for Taking Brunette Clients Blonde, Clayde Baumann advises that, like Carolyn, it's important to manage client expectations: "This is arguably the most important thing to consider when taking a client blonde. Under promise and over deliver. Make sure that when you consult with your client on their major colour change, you veer away from final shade selection until you have seen what your achieved undertone is. No matter how light or easy to lift it seems, some light bases can contain double pigment and become hard to shift, which means that your target shade may be unattainable. You can avoid disappointment by managing your client's expectation at every stage of their colour change."
A thorough consultation and a tailored aftercare is key to any colour transformation but for the client who isn't willing to take the long route, let's revisit what happens when clients insist on going blonde in one sitting.
Kim Kardashian's Blonde Hair Transformation
Having been a deep brunette only the previous evening, Kim walked the famous red carpet with platinum blonde locks pulled into a sleek, low bun. The overall appearance certainly made an impact but a closer look left hair professionals rather upset. When speaking to Vogue, Kim revealed, "I spent a day straight dyeing my hair – 14 hours straight – to get it done.” The close-up photos reveal a range of shades, from brassy to ashy, most of which are patchy. Hairdressers, take a seat and get a glass of water if you’re feeling dizzy. Professional hairdresser, Zach Mesquit, broke down the process on TikTok and explained what he thinks went wrong with Kim Kardashian's hair.
@zachmesquit What are your thoughts? Here’s mines.
♬ original sound - Zach Mesquit
Her Instagram posts from the event, as well as various TikTok videos discussing her Met Gala look, are filled with comments regarding her hair and many questioned why she didn’t opt for a wig, but Kim told Vogue that she’d been wanting to make a big change for a while. She also features in Kylie Jenner’s YouTube vlog, ‘Married to the Met – Get Ready for the Met Gala with Me’, and expresses fears of her hair falling out.
Many stylists will refuse to help a client go blonde in one sitting, but what do you do if a client walks through the salon door because they've found someone who was willing to give it a try?
Understanding Damage
Making sure your client understands their journey back to good hair health is key when beginning to repair their damaged hair, it's not a quick fix but with regular trims and tailored routines their hair will find it's way back to full health once again.
Hair is fragile and needs to be handled with care, so the first port of call with a client who is suffering from damaged hair is to spend time to find out why their hair is in its current state. "I ask as many open questions as possible from what they use to their whole routine from wash day to wash day," says Lisa Carter, freelance Hairstylist and Educator adding that figuring out where the problem began is key to their journey, "I give them a fully bespoke routine and work out a way for them to purchase new and necessary products if they're on a budget." Being realistic is also important, Lisa advises that clients will begin to notice difference in the feel of their hair within six months. Marina Hodgins, owner at Fringe Benefits Gloucester, agrees that clients will be looking at six to twelve months for their damaged hair to grow out, "It is advisable to use a professional hair care routine to nourish the hair and scalp which will speed up the growing out process. Taking supplements that contain biotin will help too but a professional consultation is the best way to start your client's hair recovery journey."
Here's how to transition your client to warm blonde this autumn.
