Top tips for colouring grey hair

Not many of us like the physical effects of ageing, but unfortunately there are many signs of growing older we simply can’t stop – and grey hair is one of the most dreaded. For women especially, this can be a major trauma, but it’s not all doom and gloom. According to Lisa Shepherd, three times Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year, today’s technical advancements in colour mean we can enhance, blend in, disguise or totally cover grey, which is a lot less drastic than going under the knife or having a new set of pearly white veneers. There are three stages of grey hair, says Lisa. "First it’s the odd stray hair, then a 50% mix of grey with the natural colour, and, finally, total take-over." But what is it that makes our hair go grey and why are some people lucky enough to bypass the grey stage altogether? Around the late fifties, says Lisa, natural hair colour fades as the body’s production of melanin decreases. "When melanin production stops altogether, the hair that grows is white. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors so the best indication of when someone’s hair will become white is when their parents’ hair whitened." Once the hair has gone grey, it’s important for a colourist to think about the best way to camouflage it, and grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette isn’t the solution. "A very light blonde often results in a harsh yellow tone being present, so normally as you get older it is advisable to go lighter, as it is softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and lowlights are all that’s needed to begin with," adds Lisa.

Top Tips for Colouring Grey Hair

There’s no disputing that the younger generation can pull off almost any look, but for the older clients, it takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Lisa Shepherd shares her advice for colouring the hair of those who have hung up their Doc Martens and waved goodbye to pink hair extensions.

• Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers, these tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones.
• Everyone assumes warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look more elegant and sophisticated, and you can add warmth to the look with highlights and lowlights after the base has been achieved.
• As soon as you see a couple of stray grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent will be sufficient, or you can camouflage with a few highlights or lowlights.
• Always advise your client to opt for multi-tonal colour. It looks more natural and regrowth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.
• Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques as these can appear less expensive looking on older women. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think Sharon Stone for gorgeous hair colour on the older woman.

More Information About Mature Hair

Philip Kingsley on the effect external factors have on ageing hair Join the debate about grey hair on the MyHJi forum