Taking care of ageing hair

When we look at our bodies it's easy to see signs of ageing. Even the most blessed beauty queens can't avoid wrinkles, saggy skin and a tummy that's not quite as firm as it was at 18. But what happens to the hair as we age and how can you help your clients combat dull, limp locks? World-renowned trichologist Philip Kingsley reveals what happens to ageing hair and the affect that external forces can have on the ageing process. We all know what happens to skin as we get older, but what happens to hair? It may be surprising, and to an extent a little depressing, to know that hair is at its thickest and strongest between the ages of 12 and 14. After that, there is a very slow deterioration. It's not something you will notice for many years but, extremely slowly, the hair's diameter decreases. Are there any landmarks that we should know about? For example, when we hit 40 does hair suddenly need more care and attention? By the mid-thirties and certainly the early-forties, everybody's hair has a degree of reduced volume. There are no real landmarks as it is so gradual and also depends on genetics. What can we do to protect our hair from the signs of ageing? There is no doubt the hair needs more care and attention as we age. Not only does the hair's diameter thin, but mature women tend to colour their hair more. As a trichologist, can you tell from looking at someone's hair roughly how old they are? It is not possible to guess the age through hair only, although an expert should be able to tell when looking at the whole picture of hair and skin. What should a hairdresser consider when treating their mature clients? Should they treat the hair of someone in their sixties the same as they do someone in their twenties? The difference in care with ageing hair compared to younger hair does not necessarily need to change, except that more mature women use a lot more potentially damaging agents, which means extra, penetrative conditioning is necessary. However, a certain amount of care in conditioning needs to be taken so that the finer hair in older women does not become too limp. I also recommend more volumising products for mature hair. Will someone who spends a lifetime colouring and heat styling their hair find it looks older more quickly? Or, is it genetic and down to luck? There is no scientific evidence, nor reason why hair should age faster with chemical or heat processing. In fact, these processes give the impression of less ageing because they swell up the hair strands. Does it vary greatly between men and women, or is the ageing process roughly the same? There appears to be very little difference between the hair ageing of males versus females. However, hair loss can be a sign of ageing, so theoretically, as men lose more hair than women as they age, it can be argued that ageing hair is more prevalent among men. How much does diet and lifestyle affect the hair? Will a smoker and heavy drinker who doesn't exercise and has a poor diet find their hair ages more quickly? Diet and lifestyle definitely affect hair, and poor nutrition can lead to prematurely ageing hair. There is no evidence though that alcohol or smoking can be a hair-ageing factor. Join the discussion about grey hair on the My HJi forum.