The Benefits of No Tension Hair Cutting

Published 03rd Jul 2024 by Josie Jackson

“Sometimes holding hair in our hands to set guides leads us astray. Our desire for exact shape can set us up for failure if there’s not a natural distribution and good balance of hair,” says Roger Molina, Sam Villa ArTeam and Master Stylist at Lunatic Fringe. “In some cases, like bobs or other free-falling shapes, the most natural fall and distribution can be found by switching your guide while holding it in the comb rather than your fingers ­– by cutting the hair with no tension.” Here, Roger shares his favourite benefits of no tension cutting, and offers tips on how to perform the technique.

What are the Benefits of No Tension Cutting?

Airy Texture: Elevating sections with less tension at the mid strand and working through to the ends allows bulk to be removed while producing a looser effect.

Correction: It is a good technique for fixing or removing something that isn’t desired ­– softer edges and texture can hide more.

Soft Edge: Some shears are designed to allow hair to slip as it’s being cut without tension to create a really nice soft edge. When you couple this with a comb holding the section, you can create an even more diffused effect.

Tips for Holding a Comb When Following the No Tension Cutting Method

·       Use equal tension – all hair rides in the same side of the comb whether it be the fine or wide side.

·       The fine side of a comb provides more control.

·       The coarse side supports natural tension and fall.

·       Use a comb in a contrasting colour from hair to better see the cutting angle.

If you're looking to expand your cutting knowledge, why not check out everything you need to know on wet cuts vs dry cuts?

Josie Jackson

Josie Jackson

Published 03rd Jul 2024

Josie supports the team with content for the print magazine, website and social media channels at HJ. Having grown up in a salon environment (thanks to her hairdresser mum) and even working as a Saturday girl before getting her degree in English Literature, Josie feels right at home in the industry. Although she’s experimented with a few creative colour looks in the past, she always comes back to blonde, and loves all things hydrating and bond building.

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