Ten top tips for perfecting the balayage technique
Published
09th Dec 2012
by rachael
The art of balayage can give a softer, more natural look than traditional foil highlights and as the dip-dye trend dies down, provides an alternative way for clients to wear graduated colour.Jack Howard, head colourist at Rossano Ferretti in London is an expert in the technique and here he shares his top ten tips for mastering the art.
1. Placement is always dictated by cut, so have a clear plan of how the finished style will look. Balayage can look unbalanced if the style of the cut is changed at the last minute.
2. The right brush can make or break the result. Just like hairdressers' scissors, I have my favourites that I won't allow anyone to borrow. I prefer a small brush about 1.5" wide with soft bristles that can easily sweep across the hair, but it is about preference - some people like wider brushes. Always make sure they have a smooth surface.
3. The consistency of the colour should make it easy to apply with a sweeping motion, neither too thick or too thin. I always say it should be like cream cheese or yoghurt - no lumps of unevenly mixed product.
4. Look at the hair as you work, taking into account the natural movement and variance in colour. These observations will help your placement stand out against a sea of neatly placed foils.
5. Separate your balayage sections with cling film, allowing you to observe your placement and gain an overall picture of the final look, as well as monitoring the development of the colour.
6. Remember that the hairline and parting are important areas, as most clients like hair to be brighter around their face and along their parting. Don't overdo it though - less is more. The final result is about making the client's hair look as if she has been on the Italian coast for a few weeks.
7. Balayage is a highlighting technique that can be used on any base colour, it's not just for blondes, but can be used to lowlight or highlight various shades.
8. Keep the tension tight on the section you are about to balayage, and start by applying the product to the midlengths, before feathering the product up to the root area with a sweeping movement. Ensure a consistent application of the product across the surface of the hair, only saturating the last inch.
9. The most common mistake people make when they first start using balayage is to place too much product at the root and have inconsistent application, which can cause mottling and a more chunky effect. Practice makes perfect.
10. Have fun, ease yourself into using the technique in your busy day, and don't try to convert a client who is used to heavy foil to balayage until you feel confident.