London collections: men autumn/winter 2014 - the shows

HJi was backstage and on the front row for some of the hottest shows at London Collections: Men Autumn/Winter 2014. Here’s a run-down of what we saw! Jungle and city landscapes both influenced the latest collection from Orlebar Brown, and a team from Toni and Guy created equally diverse hair looks. THE SHOW Orlebar Brown THE BRIEF The team from Toni and Guy, headed by Silje Vincent, was asked to create hair looks that were groomed and tailored, but maintaining some natural texture. GET THE LOOK Label.M Volume Mouse or Blow Out Spray were used, depending on the model’s natural hair. Thicker hair  was finished with Label.M Sofflé; less dense hair was finished with Label.M Power Paste to give the look definition. It was a case of extremes for the hair looks at Matthew Miller, with short and ultra-long hair both gracing the catwalk courtesy of Tony and Guy. THE SHOW Matthew Miller THE BRIEF The team from Toni and Guy, led by Chie Sato, were asked to create hair around the theme of anarchy. GET THE LOOK Label.M Volume Mousse was used to prep the hair, so as to maintain some natural texture. Longer hair was tied into pony tails, with a smooth, silky finish, but not poker-straight. Label.M Hairpray was used to finish hair of all lengths.   Models were street cast to give an air of authenticity to the latest jewellery collection from Roxanne Farahmand and hair looks were equally street-inspired. THE SHOW Roxanne Farahmand, as part of Fashion East Instillations THE BRIEF In order to showcase the designer’s 3D-printed metalwork and handmade leather jewellery, the team from Toni and Guy, led by HJ’s Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Kevin Luchmun, was asked to create looks featuring sharp lines and prominent fades. Think Rude Boys with street style. GET THE LOOK Patterns were clippered into hair, with Label.M Power Paste used to create a polished finish.   The Team from Fudge is always up for a challenge, and the James Long show for London Collections: Men A/W 2014 proved just that – there was even cling film involved! THE SHOW James Long THE BRIEF The team from Fudge, led by John Vial, was asked to create looks inspired by Lego men and futuristic sci-fi. GET THE LOOK Fudge Hair Cement was combed into hair for a close-to-the-scalp look. Cling film was then wrapped around the hair and the expose hairline trimmed. The cling film was then covered with a bespoke Paintbox blue, to complement the navy blue colours in the designer’s collection. Movement was created by running a wide-toothed combed through the cling-filmed hair. The look was then set using Membrane Gas and blow-dried so that the cling film shrank closer to the hair, revealing more of the hair’s texture.   Obsession and romance were the inspiration behind Craig Green’s latest collection, and a team from Fudge, led by John Vial, worked backstage to create hair looks to complement the stunning designs. THE SHOW Craig Green, as part of Fashion East MAN installations THE BRIEF John and the team were asked to create hair looks that were inspired by cultures of the world. GET THE LOOK Wet hair was blow-dried back away from the face with a comb. Hair was smoothed into place using Fudge Liquid Erekt. Fudge Matte Hed Extra was applied for hold and the look was finished with Membrane Gas.   Inspirations don’t come much more off the wall than Sonic the Hedgehog, but Stephen Low from Neville, London worked with Fudge to create hair looks inspired by the legendary Sega character. THE SHOW Alan Taylor, as part of Fashion East MAN installations THE BRIEF Alan asked the hair team to create looks Inspired by Sonic The Hedgehog with a sophisticated, sleek twist. GET THE LOOK Hair was blow-dried back using Fudge Big Hair Blow Dry Push It Up Spray and Hair Gum was applied to create a sleek hold. The crown of the head was Sprayed with Hair Cement and finish by pulling the hair back to create spikes, twisting outwards.   When beanies are a major focus for a new collection you have to make the most of the fringe, and session supremo Ben Jones and a team working for Fudge did just that for the new collection from Kit Neale. THE SHOW Kit Neale THE BRIEF Ben and the team were briefed to create looks to complement the collection of multi-textured clothing featuring bold prints inspired by the Elephant and Castle area of London – with the emphasis firmly on fringes. GET THE LOOK Fudge Big Hair Push it Up Bow Dry Spray was used  to dampen the hair, while providing texture and hold once dried. Fringes were finished with Sea Salt Spray for a ‘dirty’ matt texture.   Working class Northern lads were the inspiration for the hair looks at the Sibling show, with session stylist Syd Hayes and a team sponsored by Fudge on hand to create looks with real northern grit. THE SHOW Sibling THE BRIEF Sid Hayes and the team were asked to create looks that represented working class northern lads, about to leave school to work down a coal mine – think pudding basin haircuts in the kitchen with a modern twist. GET THE LOOK Hair was prepped with Fudge Sea Salt Spray, then blow-dried and straightened and a strong fringe cut in. Texturising Matt Clay was applied for a textured, gritty finish.   Despite much of the hair being covered with hats, caps and hoods, a team headed by Roku Ropping ensured hair looks for KTZ were as eye-catching as the monochrome collection. THE SHOW KTZ THE BRIEF The inspiration behind the collection was black and white photographs. Ghostly silver make-up covered the models’ faces, while hair was slicked back with a 1920s influence or short and sharp, with strong fades. GET THE LOOK Straight hair was slicked back using Fudge Hair Cement, and blow-dried. Skyscraper hair spray was used on curly hair for texture and hold. Hair was finished with Head Shine.   If you thought 70s footballers lacked style, think again. Christopher Shannon’s latest collection gave the era a whole new lease of life, with inspiring hair looks by John Vial and a team from Fudge. THE SHOW Christopher Shannon THE BRIEF Footballers from the 1970s were the main source of inspiration, with the team asked to create hair that made the models look like they’d been playing football for hours. GET THE LOOK Weaves were applied to create disconnected sections and plenty of Fudge Hair Gum was applied for a shiny, sweaty ‘just got off the football pitch’ look.   Anthony Turner and the L’Oreal Professionnel team were inspired by public school boys straightening their hair for the JW Anderson Autumn/Winter 2014 show at London Collections: Men. THE SHOW JW Anderson THE BRIEF Public school boys who have straightened their hair then slept on it. Anthony was inspired by boys that are into doing their hair and spending a lot of time getting it right – mentioning that he’ d watched his cousins over Christmas really perfecting their look. GET THE LOOK Most of the models had long hair, which was plastered with Tecni.Art Pli and styled in a centre parting. Product was blow-dried in, with hair then straightened into longer curtains at the front. Once styled, Anthony sprayed Infinium hairspray vertically at the back, blasting with a hairdryer at the same time to create the impression of hair that had been slept on and fluffed up.   Easy-going youth culture was the inspiration at YMC’s Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, where Josh Gibson led the Sassoon team to create natural texture for the models. THE SHOW YMC THE BRIEF A team from Sassoon lead by Josh Gibson were asked to create hair looks that were easy-going, natural and effortless – a mussed-up, modern take on texture for rebellious boys. Kurt Cobain was among the inspirational imagery on the moodboard. GET THE LOOK Texture was key, so models with naturally curly or wavy hair were naturally styled with Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz and Sassoon Professional Texture Refine blow-dried in to damp hair. For models with straight hair, texture was added with curling tongs before hair was mussed up and curls were broken by hand to create a looser look. Hair was finished with Sassoon Professional Motion Hold.   There was a strong tribal feel to the hair looks for the latest collection from A Sauvage, with top session stylist Bianca Tuovi diverse sources, including African tribes, Eddie Murphy and Punk. THE SHOW A Sauvage THE BRIEF Bianca was asked to create very individual looks for each model, working on the theme of Orphan warriors. GET THE LOOK Extended braided tails were a focus of the hair looks, although shorter hair also featured. To create raw, tough, slightly sweaty hair looks the team used Fudge Shine Spray on the roots for a greasy, wet look, then applied Sea Salt Spray to add natural-looking texture.   There was a powerful Punk influence behind them latest collection from Katie Eary and  a team headed by Tina Outon ensured the hair  had plenty of  anarchic attitude. THE SHOW Katie Eary THE BRIEF Tina and the team were asked to create punk-inspired looks that looked authentic - straight from the Kings Road of the 1970s. GET THE LOOK Hair was free-hand painted using a selection of reds from Fudge Paintbox to complement Katie Eary's designs. Wings were created on either side of the head using Push Up Blowdry Spray to give them lift and hold. Hair Gum was applied to the centre section to flatten, hold and give shine.