There has recently been a discourse online surrounding hair mould, with many users on TikTok admitting that they dry their hair immediately after washing, for fear of hair mould growing. To help you tackle this conversation with concerned clients, HJ spoke to two leading Trichologists to find out more…
Can Mould Grow in Your Hair and on Your Scalp?
The simple answer to this question is no – it is not possible for mould to grow in your hair. “This myth has likely arisen because mould is a type of fungus, and our scalp is naturally home to another type of fungus, a yeast called Malassezia,” explains Zoe Passam, Senior Consultant Trichologist at Philip Kingsley.
Is Yeast Something to Worry About?
“Yeast is the biggest enemy of the scalp,” says Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), Nioxin Ambassador. While Malassezia lives naturally on our scalp, and shampooing typically keeps it under control, Mark explains that it thrives in warm, damp conditions – like wet hair on a pillow. “This increased yeast production can lead to scalp problems such as itching, seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff.” Both Zoe and Mark agree that the best way to keep yeast production down is to frequently wash hair with specialised shampoos such as Philip Kingsley’s Flaky/Itchy Scalp Shampoo (which contains a targeted anti-fungal) and Nioxin’s Scalp Recovery Purifying Shampoo (which can help to relieve itching) respectively.
Should Clients Be Air Drying or Blow Drying?
This is a very common question asked by clients, however when it comes to hair and scalp health, Zoe recommends advising clients to blow dry hair if it’s being washed before bed, “especially if they’re prone to an irritated scalp, because a warm, moist environment provides an ideal breeding ground for Malassezia yeast to overgrow”. However, if your client prefers to wash their hair in the morning, Malassezia growth is less of an issue.
That being said, even in a healthy environment, leaving hair to air dry still presents issues. “Hair is at its weakest when wet, so it’s always good to get it out of this vulnerable state in a gentle way as quickly as possible,” says Mark. “Leaving hair wet causes your hair to be distorted for longer and natural curls tend to lose smoothness and definition – due to a condition called hygral fatigue.” You can recommend clients blot their hair dry with a microfibre towel or even an old t-shirt, as these create less friction. When it comes to blow drying, advise your clients to switch to a low heat setting, keeping the hair dryer 15cm from the hair.
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