Another New Haircare Trend? Let’s Get to the Bottom of the Italian ‘Third Step’ Rule

Published 23rd Jul 2024 by Josie Jackson

Recently, it seems that a ‘new’ haircare trend is emerging online every day – although it’s worth noting that many of these aren’t new trends, but old trends resurfacing. The Italian Third Step rule has been around for decades, but thanks to social media, is currently experiencing a revival. But what exactly is the Third Step, and is it worthwhile? We spoke to the experts from four Italian brands to find out…

What is the Italian Third Step?

“This approach to haircare has been passed down for generations,” explains Francine Fick, Head Educator for Alterego. “Italian women are known for their haircare regimes and love of quality products.” The Italian Third Step involves adding an additional step to your haircare routine after shampoo and conditioner, in the form of a serum or oil. “The objective of the Third Step rule is to provide essential nutrients to the hair and is a key aspect of the nourishing process,” explains Kerry Jones, Brand Director for NSIGHT for Fusion Professional Ltd. Applying a serum or oil also provides extra protection for the hair, and as Francine notes, “Over time, the products available to nourish hair have grown – in additional to providing nutrients and moisturising, there are also products that can seal split ends and protect hair from heat damage.”

What Do Professionals Think Of the Italian Third Step?

“INSIGHT is an Italian brand, so we know all about the Third Step rule, and believe all professionals should adopt this approach, and encourage their clients to do the same,” says Kerry.

Meanwhile, Alice Harvey, Creative Director at Lilys, an official Davines stockist, explains: “I think this trend is a bit of a gimmick as it’s already an everyday practise for us, however if it being a ‘trend’ encourages more clients to take the advice on board, that’s great. Following on from a shampoo and conditioner, applying a serum or oil is great for all hair types, helping to nourish strands.”

Paul Falltrick, ALFAPARF Milano Professional Brand Ambassador, also shared his take on the trend, explaining: “I think that every person’s hair should be treated on an individual basis. Many times the third step is essential, but there will be occasions where it’s not necessary. Adding the third step by way of an oil can always be achieved by combining an amazing oil with the prescribed conditioner or mask.”

What Is the Difference Between Nourishing and Moisturising Hair?

If the aim of the Third Step is to nourish hair, your clients may ask how this differs from moisturising their hair. Moisturising the hair is about adding and retaining water, which Francine explains can help the hair become less prone to dehydration, fizziness and dull colour. However, as Kerry notes, “In comparison, nourishing the hair is all about providing the hair and scalp with essential nutrients to improve hair health and strength. Both are important for maintaining healthy hair but differ greatly. Products should be selected for professional salon use and home care to address both needs accordingly and very often simultaneously.

Josie Jackson

Josie Jackson

Published 23rd Jul 2024

Josie supports the team with content for the print magazine, website and social media channels at HJ. Having grown up in a salon environment (thanks to her hairdresser mum) and even working as a Saturday girl before getting her degree in English Literature, Josie feels right at home in the industry. Although she’s experimented with a few creative colour looks in the past, she always comes back to blonde, and loves all things hydrating and bond building.

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