Cassie Clenshaw, freelance blonde specialist at The Hair Club London, is sharing her top tips to creating the perfect icy blonde
As the temperature drops and we ease into the winter months, the ultimate test of a colourist's technical precision begins as client requests for icy blonde rise from October's copper ashes.
Achieving that pristine, high-impact white is no mean feat. To help you master the look without compromising the hair's integrity, blonde specialist Cassie Clenshaw shares her top five essential rules for flawless execution behind the chair.
1. Lift to a Clean Level 10
There are no shortcuts here. To achieve true icy or white tones, your canvas must be completely free of underlying warmth. If you leave underlying yellow pigment, your toner will simply fight the base rather than deposit that crystal-clear finish. Always check your lift under proper lighting before rinsing.
2. Master Your Sectioning with Thin, Neat Subsections
While it sounds basic, your section prep is the foundation of the entire service. Working with fine, clean sections ensures total saturation and even product distribution on both sides of the foil, preventing patchy lifts, missed spots, and uneven banding.
3. Lift Low and Slow
Patience is your best friend. Opting for a lower volume developer (such as 10 or 20 volume) and allowing the lightener to work gradually protects the hair's structural bonds and prevents unnecessary cuticle damage, resulting in a much healthier and stronger finish.
4. Invest in a High-Quality Lightener
Never compromise on your ingredients. A premium lightener with built-in bond-protecting technology will lift more efficiently while maintaining the hair’s elasticity and overall health, minimising breakage during those high-lift sessions.
5. Mix to a Thicker, Creamy Consistency
Avoid runny or overly wet formulas that can slip, bleed, or swell inside the foils. A slightly thicker, rich consistency ensures the product stays precisely where you place it, hugging the hair fibres for maximum, controlled lift without damaging adjacent hair.