What could be causing your client's dry scalp?

Cold weather, hot weather, dehydration, age... all these (and more!) could causing your client's dry scalp. But what should you advise them to do, what ingredients and products should they look out for – and when should you enlist the expert help of a Trichologist? We exclusively spoke to Anabel Kingsley, Brand President & Trichologist at Philip Kingsley to find out more. HJ: What could be causing it? AK: A dry scalp occurs when the top layer of skin (the epidermis) lacks moisture (water). It is commonly due to environmental factors, such as weather. However, it is more likely to occur when your scalp is not producing enough, or adequately replacing, sebum (oil) – which tends to happen as we get older. While a dry scalp is common – it’s not quite as common as having dry skin elsewhere, such as your hands, arms, legs and even your face. This is because your scalp is a highly sebaceous environment (i.e. it contains more oil glands, and therefore produces more oils, than most other parts of your body). A dry scalp is more common in the summer months as the scalp can become sunburnt. How can you identify whether it's dandruff or dry scalp? Dandruff can be mistaken for a dry scalp. Dandruff occurs when the microbiome of their scalp becomes imbalanced. Yeasts naturally live on our scalps, and usually do not cause any problems. However, when a certain species of yeast called the Malassezia yeasts overgrow, this can cause skin cells to divide too rapidly – leading to tell-take flakes and itching. Malassezia yeasts thrive in an oily environment, and so are likely to overgrow if you shampoo infrequently or have a naturally oily scalp.  However, it is also thought that some people’s scalps are simply sensitive to normal levels of these yeasts.  What treatments / products / ingredients to recommend to clients? You need to treat dandruff consistently for best results. Use a daily shampoo containing an anti-microbial active, such Piroctone Olamine. This ingredient specifically targets the yeast responsible for dandruff, and rebalances your scalp’s microflora. (I recommend our Flaky/Itchy Scalp Shampoo.) Look for a scalp toner containing Camphor, a soothing and cooling active, as well as an astringent ingredient, like Witch Hazel, which helps to soak up excess oil. Use targeted scalp mask twice a week. Like the skin on your face, your scalp can benefit from weekly intensive treatments. (We just launched our Flaky/Itchy Scalp Mask specifically for dandruff sufferers.) Look for a triple action threat of these three ingredients - Salicylic, Lactic and Hyaluronic Acid - which work together to exfoliate, cleanse, soothe and moisturise. Our mask is also formulated with Piroctone Olamine, an anti-fungal active which helps to rebalance the microflora of the scalp, as well as Celery Seed Extract, which helps to control sebum (oil) production. Use a daily re-hydrating scalp toner containing ingredients such as Sodium Salicylate – an anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant active that helps to soothe the scalp. Twice weekly, apply a moisturising scalp mask containing ingredients such as Aloe Vera, and mild exfoliants, such as Betaine Salicylate. Hydrate from within i.e. drink enough water. When should stylists recommend clients see a trichologist, rather than trying to help as a hairdresser? If topical products, such as mentioned above, don’t provide any relief it would be best to see a Trichologist. A Trichologist will be able to discuss any factors which may be influencing the issue as well as suggest a blood test to determine any possible nutritional deficiencies. If your client's scalp is dry and itchy, take a look at our advisory article here.