Sectioning is fundamental for achieving precision and control during cutting, colouring and other hair treatments. By dividing hair into manageable sections, stylists can methodically work through each layer, ensuring symmetry and balance and importantly - achieve desired results. Here, we breakdown sectioning techniques and the cuts you can achieve with them.
“In my classes I often hear, “Where do I start?” Nine times out of ten, I start my haircuts with a road map. Aka sectioning,” says Jamie McDaniel, Sam Villa Ambassador. “It’s easy to get lost in a haircut, which then leads to frustration and wanting to give up. I’ve found when I start with sectioning, it provides a clear path of where I need to go.”
What's The Difference Between Vertical and Horizontal Layers?
Vertical: Removes weight to create a lighter appearance to hair, good for adding volume and movement. Great for vertical layers to lean out a shape and for controlling over direction.
Horizontal: Builds weight to create more fullness and definition. Major changes of direction that happen horizontally. Great for building weight, using for disconnection, working on pixies.
For clients that are after less length but don’t desire shorter layers on top, Jamie has a quick how to for a common bob where each section of the head is detached from the other, essentially building on top of one another. The perimeter is approached last for each section so she can detail it out to her liking.
Bob with Horizontal Sections
- Nape: Horizontal finger position 45° at H90° and cut perimeter for the section.
- Back: Horizontal finger position 45° above H90° and cut perimeter for the section.
- Sides: Horizontal finger position at V90° and cut perimeter for the section.
- Occipital to Crown: Vertical finger position 45° above H90°, volume left towards the bottom, over direct to center back and cut perimeter for the section.
- Crown to Front: Horizontal finger position at V90°, volume left towards the face and leave the perimeter to detail out when dry.
Vertical Breakdown Bob
- Create 4 quadrants
- In the front 2 quadrants, section out the fringe and with low elevation, over direct to the other eye and cut hair with a horizontal finger position. Repeat on other side.
- With the remaining hair in the front two quadrants, take vertical sections and over direct hair to the corner of the eye and elevate hair 45° above H90°. With the perimeter as a guide, cut hair in the elevation.
- For the back two quadrants, take a small guide from the back of the front quadrants and over direct all hair in the left back quadrant to the top of the ear. Elevate 45° above H90° and cut the hair.
Short Cut Created with Horizontal Sectioning
- Nape: Horizontal finger position at V90° and cut perimeter of section.
- Back: Horizontal finger position 45° above H90° and cut perimeter of section (detached from nape).
- Sides: Horizontal finger position 45° above H90° and cut perimeter of section (guide comes from back corner section).
- Crown: Horizontal finger position at V90° (detached from back).
- Top: Horizontal finger position at V90° and cut perimeter of section (detached from sides, guide comes from top of the crown section).
- Fringe: Diagonal finger position 45° below H90° and cut perimeter of section (shorter in center, framing the eyebrows).
- Detail out to liking. “Sectioning can take a few minutes, but it sure does save you time in the end when you get to your destination sooner than later. So don’t get lost, section out your haircuts,” adds Jamie.
