Ever wondered what the best hairstyles are for your client's face shape? Whether you're looking for the best fringes to suit a client with a round face or the best hairstyles for an angular face, the experts share their thoughts on the cuts that will most flatter your client.
"There are two things that you need to take into consideration when recommending a hairstyle to a client – there is the face shape and the facial features, and you cannot work with one without the other," says Robert Masciave from Metropolis salon. "Before we get too hung up on face shapes we need to understand how to design hairstyles to suit the person. A round face may have a long nose and this has to be acknowledged."
"What I learned studying as a make-up artist is that facial features on women are dictated by the jaw line and cheekbones," he says. "With haircuts, I always try to bring out the cheekbones and jawline – then we can merge or modify the geometry of the hair and the geometry of the facial features to harmonise."
Taking into consideration Robert's words on suitability, here are the best hairstyles for your client's face shape.
The Best Hairstyles for your Client's Face Shape
Square face shape
What is a square face shape?
"A square-shaped face features a broad forehead, wide cheekbones and a strong jawline," says Danilo Giangreco at Danilo Hair Boutique. "Selecting a haircut that softens these features is essential for a flattering appearance."
What hairstyles suit a square face shape?
"For a look that complements bone structure, consider a side parted style, which will offset the squareness," says Danilo. "Long and airy layers can also be flattering and will help to disguise the angles of the face. If the client likes a cropped length, consider a short, layered bob. But, remember to add a side swept fringe which will draw attention to the cheekbones instead of the jawline."
"Square-shaped faces often feature a very strong jawline, so it’s up to you whether you want to celebrate or soften this," says Desmond Murray at Atherton Cox. "Long, wavy styles are great for softening and lengthening a short, angular face while a choppy bob is great for celebrating this enviable bone structure."
"Avoid having a short pixie cut as it may look too severe and masculinise the face," says Daisy Andrews at Guy Kremer. However, if your client is going shorter, Andrew Hall at Idlewild Hair recommends playing with weight.
"Build the weight out on top to balance the jawline, and make sure any fringe is light and soft," he says. "A bob shape should be fuller and rest between the jaw and neckline, and partings should be on the side."
Round face shape
What is a round face shape?
"Round face shapes typically feature a similar length and width as well as prominent, rounded cheeks," says Danilo. "The most flattering hairstyles for ladies with round faces are those that add definition and shape."
What hairstyles suit a round face shape?
"Round faces benefit from any cut that brings shape and angle to the bone structure," says Desmond. "Think short, angular bobs, rock chick layers and side-fringes that break up the softness of the face."
"A length that hits the shoulders or just below the jawline will be flattering and elongate the face " says, Thomas Marrington at Guy Kremer. "Style with a slightly off-centre part and add in some choppy layers to give the hair more texture and body."
"A centre parting creates a symmetrical appearance, although moving the parting a nice volume to the hair and can create the look of an oval shape when parting hair to left or right," says Joseph Koniak at Eleven Mayfair Hair.
"An arced fringe will compliment a rounder face, coupled with longer layered hair," says Andrew. "If going for a shorter look, building the weight up on the occipital bone balances a fuller face shape, and a long bob with movement is ideal."
Danilo recommends avoiding single-length cuts along with short layers, which can enhance the round shape. "Opt for a more dishevelled blowdry over lots of curls," he advises.
Oval face shape
What is an oval face shape?
"Oval shaped faces, thanks to their well-balanced appearance, can suit a wide variety of hairstyles," explains Danilo. "However, if you’re looking for a style with impact, you should consider opting for either long locks or a cute, short crop."
What styles suit an oval face shape?
"For oval-faced ladies who like medium length, a blunt bob or lob with subtle layers will look particularly chic," adds Danilo. "If the client prefers long hair, opt for minimal layers or style the hair with waves or curls to keep it from dragging down the face."
"Most partings will suit this face shape," says Joseph. "An oval face gives you the luxury of moving the parting around as much as you like. Generally, partings look great from the rise of an eyebrow, so whether you're going from straight back to crown or straight back from one side to the other to conceal the parting line, you should get a beautiful look."
Desmond says those with oval shapes can experiment with more daring styles due to the oval's harmonised features. "Lucky oval-shaped faces can pull off pretty much any style due to their well-balanced proportions," he says. "This is a great excuse to go for some more daring styles such as a punky crop or a long, one-length seventies style cut."
Heart face shape
What is a heart face shape?
"If you have a heart-shaped face, your bone structure will feature a broad forehead and cheekbones with a narrow jawline and chin," explains Danilo.
What styles suit a heart face shape? "A long side-swept cut will compliment the features beautifully while drawing eyes down to the bottom of the face," advises Danilo.
"You can also pair this cut with waves or curls starting below the ear to even out the angled jaw. Alternatively, a side-parted pixie cut with textured ends can also appear gorgeous on a heart face shape, as can a medium length bob, which will ensure fullness around the jaw."
"Avoid straight across blunt fringes as this will widen the forehead," says Karoliina Saunders at Karoliina Saunders. "Focus on longer length around the back and behind the ears to create wider shape for the bottom part of the face."
"For bob shapes keep it graphic with clean, sharp lines and with longer shapes a fuller fringe and central parting will flatter this shape," says Andrew.
Side partings also work well for heart shapes, says Joesph. "All partings work on this face shape, but consider what looks best on the client," he says. "A low or medium parting from the rise of the eyebrow, the corner of the eyebrow, or start of the eyebrow are most flattering."
Diamond face shape
What is a diamond face shape?
"Diamond is an angular face shape that features a narrow forehead and jawline with cheekbones at the widest point of the face," says Danilo.
What styles suit a diamond face shape?
"Diamond-shaped faces are widest at the cheekbones so can benefit from a cut that is fuller around the jawline such as an angular bob or a shoulder-length cut with layers that begin around the chin," says Desmond.
"Diagonal side partings are the best," says Karoliina. "Opt for styles with longer length on top to create height on the curvature of the head, preferably with some length showing from behind the ears. Soft mullets are great for this."
"A quirky pixie cut will accentuate the prominent angles of a diamond face shape, whilst a side-swept parting will soften the look," says Daisy. "Even wearing it sleek and tucked behind the ears is a very classy yet casual look that works for both daytime or evening."
"For a soft look, consider a medium or long layered haircut worn with tousled waves and a deep side parting," says Danilo. "If you wish to enhance the appearance of the jaw, on the other hand, a chin-length bob will work best. Also, don’t forget to try a pulled back ponytail for an editorial look that will show off the cheekbones."
Rectangle and angular face shapes
What is a rectangular / angular face shape?
Rectangular and more angular face shapes look amazing with cuts that soften and work with, not against, the contours of the face. "Much like square-shaped faces, rectangular faces can appear sharp," says Desmond, and tend to have a sharp jaw and forehead.
What styles suit a rectangle / angular face shape?
"Those with a rectangular face should work to soften the appearance of their jaw and forehead without further elongating the face," says Danilo.
"A soft layered cut, for example, can disguise the corners of the face. However, you should be careful to avoid overly long styles, which can further elongate your appearance," says Danilo. "If you do opt for a long length, try styling your hair with a wavy blowdry , which will add horizontal volume and soften the angles of your face. And for for updos, choose soft shapes."
"When it comes to fringes, choose soft, rounded fringes and curtain fringes over square styles and blunt cut options," he says.
"Soft layers will work just as well on angular-shaped faces while a rounded fringe can help reduce the appearance of face length," says Desmond.
