Taking the leap from commercial to avant-garde hair styling

Ever felt the urge to try something a bit weirder? To trade in the commercial styling and start experimenting with avant-garde hair?  Working in the avant-garde can be an extremely gratifying and educational experience, offering you a sharper and more creative skillset with limitless opportunities of what you can achieve with hair. It can also be quite a daunting transition. Below, we speak to four industry experts about their experience of taking the leap from commercial styling to avant-garde, as well as asking for their key advice for the change.  

Anne Veck - Anne Veck Hair

“I started doing avant-garde hair as a way to relax because it was totally different from salon work. I had no idea if it was going to be successful, but it paid off as I found myself traveling the world to demonstrate my skill.” “I find avant-garde hair interesting as it's usually all about creating a different texture with hair using braiding, knotting, twisting or even knitting. With this texture, you can create different shapes, a bit like a sculptor working with clay. It is also all about problem solving, like working out how to defy gravity, thinking outside of the box and using material that is not usually used with hair, like food gelatin.” “As a salon owner, I have to problem solve on a daily basis, and working with avant-garde hair can really help to make you more resourceful. You also need to know your basics, like finger waving, setting, pin curls etc., as you can't run before you can walk.”  

Robert Masciave - Metropolis Hairdressing

“For me, it wasn’t quite taking the jump as much as it was creating two sides to my business targeted at different audiences- commercial for clients and avant-garde for trade, which I started in the early 90s.” “Avant garde hair always has a strong impact in the industry, so it could be a good way to be noticed and recognised. However, it’s not everyone's cup of tea, so you have to be prepared to be criticised. I personally never mind. I always want to bring a strong emotion to the audience. Love or hate is a success, and indifference is the failure to me.” “Attend as many courses as possible to increase your skills to the highest level as avant garde hair requires that and more. Have a clear plan - Is it for business or to express yourself? Knowing your audience is also very important when changing direction, as they are mostly hairdressers who are part of projects and fashion. Learn the craft like a master and break the rules like an artist. Challenge yourself and you will evolve.”  

Thomas Hills - TH1 Hair

“I’ve amassed a whole host of collections over the years, and while most are commercial and trend-led, I have stepped outside of my comfort zone recently to really push my creative boundaries. I see avant garde work as hair couture – it’s a true expression of creativity and there’s a sophistication and extravagance to it. The process from conception to creation is a long journey, but thoroughly rewarding.” "It’s important to myself and my team that we are able to express ourselves outside of the salon, which in turn allows us to showcase the work we’re truly capable of. While avant-garde isn’t going to drive clients to the salon, it shows that you and your team have a range of skill sets that make you stand out.” “Don’t limit yourself to what you know. While a signature look and style is great, it’s important to push yourself beyond the parameters of what you’re capable of. You also need to be organised, disciplined and dedicated. Research is key, as is practice.”  

Jason Hall - Jason Hall Hairdressing

“I got involved in session hair and a lot of the brands that I worked with went from wanting commercial looks to more varied styling, which ultimately led me to avant-garde hairdressing. This involved making pieces and then creating avant garde hair through the placement of these. That said, it’s a category of hairdressing that I particularly enjoy where creative freedom is more obtainable.” “There’s a lot of trial and error in this type of work. It can be time consuming whereas, in salon, it’s fairly straight forward with allocated appointments and previous knowledge of your client base. It’s a very different way of working.” “There’s a lot of background research to be done, and then being experimental in producing the hair that is expected of you. It’s very rewarding and interesting, keeping your artistic knowledge open and ready to use.”