Manicurist of the year 2007

NATURAL BORN WINNER In 1999 hotel receptionist Linda Butler decided on a different career, but after offering nail extensions, she changed her mind again and took the "natural route". Linda collects her award from host Ben Shepherd from GMTV Linda of Just Nails in Poole, Dorset, tells Annette Hanford just what it takes to become Manicurist of the Year 2007.With my husband’s shift patterns (he’s a fireman), it was difficult for me to find employment to fit in with the children. I enjoyed having my nails done, so decided to go on a training course and did a basic four-day course in manicure, acrylic, gel and fibreglass extension systems. Although at the end of it I had a certificate to say I was a nail technician, I knew this was just not enough knowledge and I needed more training. Even though my certificate said I was qualified, I really didn’t know that much. I embarked on several product-based training courses and enrolled at my local college to do a City & Guilds NVQ in manicure and pedicure. This taught me all about the actual nail, something I felt I needed to know. During this time I found I had a passion for nail art and was thirsty to learn as much as I could. I had already opened a salon at home and rented a table once a week in a hairdressing salon. Although I had a good client base, I soon learnt that a hairdressing salon was not the place to offer a professional set of nails – the heat was too much for the acrylic; hair landed in the enhancements; and my clients were usually late due to the hairdresser’s erratic timetable. One Christmas day I’d had enough – I’d broken one of my own nails so took off my enhancements, which I had worn for more than three years. My own nails were in a terrible mess, complete with fungal infection.

I was due to attend my first Jessica training course (at the Natural Nail Company) the following month and was required to have my nails naked, so then was as good a time as any to remove them.

After I had attended my first Jessica training course, I knew this was the direction I wanted to major in. The course was enlightening and the trainer was excellent. I left fully motivated and had decided that the natural nailcare route was the one for me. I followed the routine on my own nails – without deviating – and could see a visible improvement every day. I soon found my natural nails were easier to care for than my extensions. I have seen lots of damaged nails caused by extensions fitted by poorly trained technicians, including my own, and strongly believe that with the correct client consultation and aftercare advice everyone can have lovely nails – naturally. Slowly, all my regular clients noticed how good my own nails were looking. One by one, they decided to follow by example and converted to the natural nailcare route. EXTENSIONS ARE OUTLAWED One of my new ladies had two broken nails, but the rest were of good length and strong. As eight nails were extremely good, I didn’t want to cover them with enhancements, so asked her if I could experiment by giving her a treatment manicure and extending just the broken ones. If she preferred the enhancements I would fit them on her return.

When she returned two weeks later she told me that her own nails still looked and felt lovely, so I maintained the short nails for another visit before she went completely au naturel. Extensions were soon outlawed in my salon!

I can’t compete with the instant effect of the artificial nail, or the ease of the French enhancements. However, when you have a well-painted nail, you can make even a short nail look lovely. A shorter painted nail is much more serviceable, looks great and allows my clients to cope with their daily routines. Homecare is extremely important with natural nailcare. Without it, you will not be able to achieve the results we all strive for and the manicure will not last as long. I always explain homecare during the treatment and give my clients a guide to take home – they would never remember everything as there’s too much to take in. My guide bullet-points the procedures I have carried out in the salon and gives advice on how not to use your hands and what not to do just after a treatment. A copy also sits on my desk for my regular clients to take if they need a little reminder, because we all get into bad habits from time to time. To make the results of their treatments last longer, it is cost-effective for my clients to buy a top coat to apply at home every few days. I try not to ‘hard sell’, but explain that this is how I make my own manicure last so long. If they don’t buy any the first visit, they usually do on the second. The majority of my clients come to see me fortnightly. However, I see some every 10 days and others monthly or just for special occasions.

The difference between extension clients and natural nail clients is that my ladies come to see me because they want to – not because they have to.

I think that as I work alone, I can give my ladies more than the industry allotted time. It is impossible to give a good quality manicure in only 30 or 45 minutes. I have found that when many techs go back to the salon after training, they are forced to take short cuts and miss out parts of the treatment. I refuse to do this and would rather take longer to do the job correctly – if a client has a break, I will repair it. If the cuticles are extremely dry, you need longer to moisturise. If you rush, things go wrong. RAISING THE STANDARD There are a lot of very good techs, but also a lot of sub-standard ones out there who have had very little training and are damaging their clients’ nails. This gives the whole industry a bad name and reputation as many clients won’t go near a nail professional again. Unfortunately, manicures are usually at the bottom of the beauty treatment list and are very rarely done correctly or to a good standard in ‘quick’ nail bars. The nail industry today is very much extension-led and natural nailcare manicures are often perceived as very much a second-rate treatment. I believe that a good manicure is just as, or even more, important than anything else on offer.

My goal is to make manicures and natural nailcare the top of the treatment lists – not at the bottom. Everyone can have lovely nails with a little patience and help from a professional.”