How to master perfect hair photography
Published
18th Mar 2009
by sophieh
Photography has become one of the most integral tools of the hairdressing trade.
From creating eye-catching salon art work, to forming awards entries and appearing in magazines; a great collection is a showcase for new styles, trends and techniques, and of course, the ability of the hairdresser.
But how do you get the best out of your shoot? Former British Hairdresser of the Year Lisa Shepherd and top hair photographer Andrew O'Toole debate the key issues surrounding hair photography.
- Choosing the Right Photographer
Lisa Shepherd: Many people ask me how to find a photographer, and I say technically when you're looking for a great photographer you are looking at how they shoot hair. Ask yourself, do they make hair the main focus?
Andrew O'Toole: The best way to find someone is to have a look around at the people that are shooting great imagery and if you're into what they're doing, track them down and give them a call.
A face-to-face meeting is also pretty crucial as it'll give a very good indication if someone's into the job or the concept. It'll also help you weed out the megalomaniacs and the freaky ones (there are a few!). 
Can you Cut Costs?
LS: When planning a shoot, I think lots of people try and cut costs, asking what's really essential to have?
AOT: I've done shoots without clothes, and shoots with little make-up. Good models and great hair is what will ultimately "sell" your images to judges or magazines.
If the models aren't decent magazine standard, I'll usually suggest that they be replaced. This isn't to say they always have to be big professional models - they just have to have that potential.
If I had a tight budget I'd look at perhaps shooting in a large salon or training academy rather than a photographic studio that can cost up to about £700 per day. If wigs are an option then doing a second look on a model with a wig can also greatly reduce expenses.- Cast the Right Models
AOT: Casting is an area some find overwhelming and ask me about a lot. I tell hairdressers, first really look at how the models appear in their portfolio photos.
Some of the most amazing models I've shot I wouldn't look twice at if I walked past them in the street, but in front of the camera, they are transformed.
Secondly, meet them in the flesh, don't rely on images or only view cards online.
The third thing is to take a few digital images at the casting. I find shooting about 10 or so frames will usually convince me if they're right for the job.
LS: As the hairdresser at a casting, it's your responsibility to check out their hair. Fine and flyaway, damaged, bad roots,.. look for all the obvious things.
Make sure you can work with every model's hair to achieve a look you want otherwise you're going to be stuck on the shoot. 
Be Sure to Plan Ahead
AOT: A well-structured brief can make a shoot. Experience has taught me that even if you have exceptionally talented people on a shoot, if they're not on the same page they may as well be on a different planet!
LS: I always tell my team that a thorough and comprehensive brief is essential - it's not optional. Pull together loads of pictures, images and reference points that you've swatted up on.
Also be prepared for things to happen out of the ordinary i.e. the girl may turn up and she's cut her own fringe or grown roots, or changed her hair completely. You have to bend and change and adapt at the very last minute.
AOT: Getting people to stick to a brief is also easier said than done. Usually, I try and sort out as many problems prior to the shoot day.
Problems will often arise and I'm a firm believer in telling people straight up if something's not working - rather than regretting it at the end of the day. Timing is essential.- On the Day of the Shoot
AOT: The best rough guide for most shoots is: one hour each for hair, make-up and one for photography, per model.
If you're shooting eight models a day then stagger them to arrive every hour, and alternate between long and short styles. To shoot two looks on one model it can take up to six hours - more if the hair has to be washed and make-up reapplied.
LS: But don't rush things. At the start of shooting you should take your time and just get the looks right! It's very easy on the day when the pressure is on to think 'oh that will do'.
Be honest with yourself, this shoot is a massive investment and you have to get it right! So don't fluff but keep grafting until you have the shot you want. - How to Get the Right Shot
AOT: My criteria for getting 'the shot' is:
- Does the model look the best she can?
- Have I got the best hair on a certain angle of the face?
- Compositionally, is the image interesting?
- Is the image big, glossy magazine standard?
- Can I make it better? (which is often hard when sticking to pretty strict time limits)
LS: Any photographer worth their salt will give you a small selection of the best shots. I suggest you listen to them as they have the creative eye to know what makes a good photograph.
But, make sure it instinctively grabs you and that you love it though as shoots are a lot of money and you have to love the results!
Putting Together a Hair Photo Collection
