Does an overflowing scissor bag mean stylists are more prepared, or does one size fit all when it comes to salon tools? Sam Villa, Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken, explains the importance of having the right tools for the right job and how many scissors you really need for the perfect cut every time.
“When I first started out, I used one pair of scissors for everything, because that’s what I was comfortable with. Then, someone told me that I needed a longer scissor for something I was doing, and I asked why because I knew I could get the job done with the scissors I was using. They then explained the what, how and why behind each scissor design and that’s when I understood that I could minimize my effort and maximize the results when using the right scissors for the right job,” explains Sam.
The Perfect Scissor Kit
From pixie crops to layered lengths, each scissor is designed for a different technique and style. According to Sam, every stylist should have at least five pairs of scissors including:
- Short Blunt Scissor: For cutting shorter styles and detailing around ears. A 5.5 swivel scissor is even better as it will allow the wrist to stay straight and elbow down when manoeuvring angles tight to the head.
- Medium Blunt Scissor: For wet/dry cutting and layering everyday cuts with exceptional control.
- Long Blunt Scissor: For deep point cutting, slide cutting, larger sections and longer lengths.
- Blending Scissor: The bottom over-polished blade pushes hair into teeth for a scallop instead of straight cut so it’s great for layering, especially blondes because it won’t leave a line.
- Multi-textural Scissor: For extracting weight, blending and creating texture.
“Think of a butcher with their knives…or a painter with their brushes…as artists, we need various tools to create different effects as well,” explains Sam.
Beyond The Bag
It’s not only about having the correct scissors, protecting and looking after them is just as important as using them correctly. Here are Sam’s top tips for looking after your tools:
- Clear the area: Wipe off excess hair after each use.
- Use scissor oil: Apply scissor oil to the inner pivot area, open and close several times, then wipe away excess oil and debris from the pivot area.
- Check tension: Check tension by holding the thumb side of the scissor in one hand, lift the finger side with the other until the blades are fully open, then let go. The blades should stay open and not close. If the blade closes partially and there is a spring leaf spring tension system, tighten the screw one click at a time, until minimum tension to keep them open. If too tight, turn the screw or tension knob counterclockwise, one click at a time. If it is a Click Set Streamline Tension System, (a scissor with a screw holding the blades together) conduct the same exercise using the screw key that usually comes with the scissors. A scissor with loose tension will cause hair to bend, a simple adjustment will solve the problem 99% of the time.
- Store Away: Store scissors closed in a case to reduce the chance of falling and getting a chip in the blades.
- Check the facts: Read and save all the information that comes with the scissors to understand the warranty and servicing and register to better track the purchase/maintenance.
Looking for more? Here's 15 things you need in your hairdressing kitbag from day one!