Hairdressing teams at london fashion week

Published 25th Feb 2009 by sophieh

Hairdressing and fashion go together hand in hand with more and more people recognising that hair is in many ways the most versatile and complementary fashion accessory of them all.

Behind the scenes at London Fashion Week, as well as the army of designers and wardrobe assistants, there are teams of hairdressers and make-up artists helping to maximise the impact of the collections.

These are the on-trend creations of some of the hairdressers working backstage at Fashion Week.

Thomas Vicary (Home House, Friday, February 6)

Thomas-Vicary2.jpgThe Collection

Using a pallette of autumn tones of reds and rusts to complement tailored dresses that were nipped in at the waist to give a ultra feminine feel. Detail including exposed zips, slashed backs and scooped hemlines add flair to the designs.

Hair Team

Megan Zarrabi (hob Salons); Emanuelle Valenti (Toni&Guy Norwich) and Zoe Adams (Marc Antoni)

Hair Inspiration

Modern day ballerina meets red carpet chic

How To 

All the models had long hair which was sleeked back in very tight ponytails. Very sleek and glossy hair was contrasted with with off-set chignons which were achieved with donuts. Some were crimped for contrast similar to complement the multiple textures of the clothes.

Must-Have Session Kit

High Hair Leave It Long, High Hair Finishing Spray and High Hair Crystal Styler from Wella Professionals

Paul Costelloe (BFC Fashion Forward Tent, Friday, February 20)

Paul-Costello2.jpg

The Collection

A muted autumnal palette of; 'Classic Bronze', 'Moody Mauve', 'Grey Moss' and 'Regal Burgundy'.  Beautiful A-line focused silhouettes, voluminous draped, cropped sleeve coats with a dolly-chic air.

Head of Hair Team

Tim Furssedonn (TONI&GUY)

Hair Inspiration

Late 60's, early 70's, LA meets Upper East Side New York.  Done/styled evening hair the morning after. Un-done texture with bouncy curl. 

How To

A high ponytail at the crown, which is then set with rollers.  The hair is pulled down and pinned at random into a bob length, with texture created at the roots and a tighter curl left at the ends. 

Must-Have Session Kit

Label.m Volume Mousse, Label.m Shine Spray, hairspray, heated rollers and pintail comb.

Noir/Bllack Noir (BFC Fashion Forward Tent, Friday, February 20)

Noir2.jpgThe Collection

A moody collection of 'gothic black' and 'startling white', with glints of 'metallic'.  Teaming leather panelling with floaty chiffon to give a contrast of textures and feminine silhouettes. 

Head of Hair Team

Efi Davies (TONI&GUY)

Hair Inspiration

'Young', 'fresh' and 'rocking'! A combination of three looks; long tumbling lengths with copious texture; a half-up, half-down and a DIY chignon.  It is all about playfulness.

How To

Prepare the hair texture by blow-drying in volume Mousse and then straightening.  Create a contrast of textures by using dry shampoo on the roots through to the middle of the length and then shine mist from the middle lengths to ends.  For the chignon, a loose pony was fastened at the nape and twisted into a DIY shape. 

Must-Have Session Kit 

Label.m Volume Mousse, Label.m Dry Shampoo, Label.m Shine Mist, cushion brush, professional straightening irons.

Charles Anastase (Il Bottaccio, SW1, Saturday, February 21) 

Charles-Anastase.jpgThe Collection

Rock and Roll 80's inspired collection where gothic meets grunge. Checked shirts and chunky bondage boots are set off by multi layering, three-quarter length sleeves and industrial-style belts.

Head of Hair Team 

Simon Bryer,  Michael Van Clarke, Lead Stylist

Hair Team

Eirik Thorsen, hob salons, Peter Prosser, Peter Prosser Hairdressing, Claire Ayton - Michael Van Clarke

Hair Inspiration

Early 90's and post-punk/grunge era but given a modern twist with a softer more feminine, 'De-lush' -  feel.  Edgy and elegant, the style was a contrast of soft sleek curves and texture.

How To

Hair was sectioned into a horse shoe shape at the crown and sprayed with styling lotion. The hair was then blow dried into curls in six sections with a small round brush and secured with pin curls at the top of the head. Hair was thn scrunched upwards to create texture before side sections were slicked and braided. The six sections were taken out and brushed through to create a soft wave at the top covering the braids.

Must-Have Session Kit

High Hair Touch and Feel, High Hair Bouncy Dip, High Hair Bouncy Dip,  High Hair Leave it Long. High Hair Crystal Styler, System Professionals Ultimation,  small round brush, pins and grips.  

Betty Jackson (BFC Fashion Forward Tent, Sunday, February 22)

Betty-Jackson-2.jpgThe Collection

A wearable, classic collection of high waists, bold knitwear and matching silk print garments, with a floral and slightly tribal theme throughout. Intricate detailing - fluted and daisy edging on sleeves and hems - ooze femininity. Accessories such as woollen backpacks, piping flower necklaces and boldly coloured shoes, compliment a varied, subtle, autumnal palette.

Hair Head of Team

Cos Sakkas (TONI&GUY)

Hair Inspiration

Olive Oil from Popeye, with a Japanese influence.

How To

Hair was blow-dried straight, parted on the side and pulled into a tight ponytail at the crown. Using a tint brush and bowl, Gel was painted onto the hair to create an extreme gloss and controlled look. Hairspray was then sprayed directly on to the hair coating it further, and then sections of the ponytail were ironed to create a very solid, almost cardboard like affect. Once Ironed the ponytail was rolled into a chignon hooped shape and secured with grips. 

 

Must-have Session Kit

Label.m Gel, Label.m Hairspray, professional straightening irons, tint brush and bowl, pintail comb, elastics and grips

Giles Deacon (London, Monday Febraury 23)

Giles-Deacon-LFW.jpgThe Collection

A moody, rock filled collection, which oozed attitude! Slate grey and molten silver formed the Colour Palette and complemented structured garments, heavy carpet dresses and Mongolian Sheep Skin detailing. True to Giles' archetypal style, beautifully structured hats were present throughout.

Head of Hair Team

Efi Davies (TONI&GUY)

Hair Inspiration

Very alternative, lived-in texture with a slight 30's nod. Soft and feminine, yet powerful and dynamic!

How To

Prep the hair with volume mousse and sea salt spray and then scrunch with the hands to give a really raw and workable texture. The front horse-shoe section of the hair was backcombed and then fed into a plait starting just below the crown. The end of the plait was backcombed into a fuzzy pom pom-like shape. Resurrection Style Dust was then sprinkled onto the hair for the ultimate root lift and powdery finish.

Must-Have Session Kit 

Label.m Volume Mousse, label.m Dry Shampoo, label.m Sea Salt Spray, label.m Resurrection Style Dust, professional hairdryer, Magic Hands, TONI&GUY cushion brush, pins and grips.

Maria Grachvogel (W1, London, Monday, February 23)

Maria-Grachvogel.jpgThe Collection

Elegance was the buzz word with oversized folds and twists of fabric and dramatic pleats adding detail to classic halter dresses, flared catsuits and trousers, pussy bow blouses. Feminine frills were contrasted with wide-leg or pin-slim structured trousers, while monochromatic tones were given a splash of colour with a bold burned-orange flower motif.

Head of Hair Team

Antoinette Beenders

Hair Inspiration

A modern, futuristic nod to the 1930s, the hair is swept back and flat-wrapped tightly to the head. A feminised, silky version of a traditional flying hat covers the majority of the hair with fly-away strands left free to invoke a windswept, natural feel.

How To

Spritz hair with water until damp and comb through.  Take a diamond section at the crown where hair is thickest, twist and pin. Then section an inch of hairline either side of head from eyebrow to ear and sweep the remainder of the hair tightly around the head from left to right like a snail shell, starting from the left ear. Loosen the crown section and comb through befor flattening it to the scalp and pinning to the nape of the neck.Fold back to the crown and wrap any remaining lengths as before. Release sections on hairline and work in Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion to add dryness to edges and create a windswept texture.

Must-Have Session Kit

Kirby grips, Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion, Aveda Air Control Hair Spray  

Bora Aksu (SW7 London, Tuesday, February, 24) Bora-Aksu.jpg

The Collection

Combines elements of rock and grunge with a hint of femininity.  Voluminous skirting and layering, sheer chiffon and dramatic PVC panelling - with a palette of striking metallic green, royal blue and gothic black. 



Head of Hair Team

Bill Watson (TONI&GUY)

Hair Inspiration

A 'Victorianesque' feel, with an earthy and purist texture, contradicting the striking rock elements in the collection.

How To

The hair was prepped with volume mousse and Sea Salt Spray and blasted dry.  Then taking sections was rolled into the head and pinned just below the crown, creating a roll around the head.  label.m Resurrection Style Dust was lightly coated over the roll to give a lasting contemporary texture. 

Must-Have Session Kit

Pintail comb, pins and grips.

New York Fashion Week

It wasn't just London where hair teams were hard at work. At New York Fashion Week, teams from Aveda were hard at work reinventing classic updos.  

Christian Siriano

Christian-Siriano.jpgThe Collection

Inspired by Egyptian influences including the pyramids, hieroglyphics and shadows, the collection worked with a pallet of

soft stone, rich camel tones, deep browns and muted brick shade infused with hints of jewel tones. Rich and luxe Pyramid sleeves and sculptural detailing gave a strong yet feminine feel. 

Head of Hair Team

Jon Reyman for Aveda

Hair Inspiration

Maintaining the Egytian theme, hair was pulled back cleanly into a boxy chignon for a bold, geometric look with overall shine. The look is accented with a gold, chain-style fringe emulating Cleopatra's fringe.

 

Rodarte

Rodarte.jpgThe Collection

Artist, Gordon Matta-Clark, who deconstructed parts of abandoned buildings in the 70s, inspired this ecclectic collection. Juxtapoing a variety of fabrics that evoke the materials used to construct a house, such as gravel, cement, copper piping and insulation this collection was all about playing with contrasts.

Head of Hair Team

Odile Gilbert for Aveda

Hair Inspiration

A modern, architectural look, the hair is slicked back with a deep side part. A ponytail is laced up and wrapped to create an architectural, modern version of a chignon.

sophieh

sophieh

Published 25th Feb 2009

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