Inclusivity is a big topic in the hair industry, and can cover a multitude of issues. Mary Al-Khudri, Managing Director at Salon Hijab Academy, is hoping to raise the profile of the needs of hijabi women, highlighting a gap in the haircare market. Here’s what she had to say when HJ caught up with her for a chat…
“The haircare needs of hijabi women differ others, so an alternative approach needs to be taken. In my experience, this isn’t something all stylists are aware of. Some people don’t even understand the importance of a hijabi woman taking pride in her haircare, which is very frustrating. Simply put, these women care for their hair because they want to feel good – their beliefs don’t make them differ from others in that sense. Plus, they still attend weddings and other social events, and their hair is still seen on occasion. They wouldn’t want to leave their roots grown out any more than the next client.”
Discussing her search for the perfect products, Mary explains: “After a woman takes her hijab off, her hair goes flat. You have to try and figure out a way, or find a product, that will help you create lasting volume without making the hair sticky. You want something like a serum, to keep the hair moist, as the hair is covered up majority of the time. Anything sticky is a big no-go because the moment you remove the hijab, the hair underneath will be disturbed. Because of this, most mousses don’t fit the bill, and some powders can be a bit sticky. Dry shampoo is closer, but still not quite right. I think the perfect product is missing from the market.
“I’ve been trying out a few products, though, such as a heat protector from L’Oréal Professionnel, and Color Wow Dream Coat – the latter can help with damp hair and sweating, but it does contain silicone, which can be controversial for some clients.” In addition to a lack of products for hijabi women, Mary also explains why she feels there is a lack of colour products for women who do not have Caucasian hair – specifically, for women with Asian hair. She says: “You aren’t necessarily taught to colour Asian hair – everything I know about this, I’ve learnt through experience. Those with Asian hair often have very warm undertones, and the layers of cuticle in their hair differs to those with, say, Caucasian hair. Because of this, colours need to be more intense, stronger. As a knock-on effect, this also means that standard colour charts aren’t relevant to Asian hair, as the colour won’t perform the same. I would love to see more colour products designed with a range of hair types in mind.”
Rounding off our conversation, Mary also touched on the notion of private spaces in salons. She says: “Stop putting people behind curtains. Give them an option – do they want to be in a mixed section? Offering this choice should be universal to all clients – don’t just market it to a specific type of person. I think businesses are losing out because of that.”
If this is a topic you would like to read more about, then why not check out our article where we spoke to both clients and hairdressers about whether they think the hairdressing industry caters to women who wear head coverings?