Hair masks and hair oils have been around for years, however thanks to social media, their popularity seems to be surging. But how does this consumer trend translate into the salon environment? Through education. As hair professionals, we know better than anyone how to use these products to achieve the best results. So, we had a chat with some experts on the dos and don’ts of hair masks and hair oils, to ensure you’re able to pass on the best knowledge to your clients.
The most popular hair masks on the market fall into two categories: deep-conditioning and bond building. The former adds moisture back into dry stands – and hydrated hair better withstands breakage. Meanwhile, the latter adds strength by repairing broken bonds in the hair’s cortex. Anabel Kingsley, Brand President at Phillip Kingsley and Consultant Trichologist, highlights that these two types of hair masks are best used in conjunction with one another – however, some clients may be sceptical of this fact, and think you are simply trying to upsell, so make sure you highlight these differences.
In particular, social media has recently been rife with consumers sharing their favourite oils for scalp massages – however Anabel notes that this is a trend you should be warning some of your clients against. She says: “Hair oils have many amazing properties, but most commonly people mistake them with being able to hydrate the hair. When hair is dry it has lost moisture in the form of water, and therefore requires a water-based product to rehydrate it – which oil is not.
“Oils provide great styling properties such as smoothness, shine and slip, making them great for reducing frizz and detangling. Their hydrophobic (water-repelling) properties also mean that they are great at locking moisture content into the hair. “However, oils are not so great for those with hyper-sensitive scalps and should be avoided. This is because the malassezia yeast that cause dandruff thrive in an oily environment, therefore if you have an inflamed or irritated scalp, adding oil will only exacerbate the problem.”
Andrew Barton, Keune UK Creative Ambassador, agrees that different hair types respond differently to a range of products, which is why he believes that consultation is key. Are you talking to your clients about their hair goals, and offering recommendations of professional products? That’s not to say that all oils are bad, and they definitely have a place in some haircare routines. Jacqui McIntosh, European Education Director for Avlon, explains: “Oils are great at locking in moisture – and curly, coily, textured hair types in particular require plenty of moisture to maintain hair health. Good quality graded oils can replenishment the hair and support active hair growth and are great to as barrier against the elements.”
Whether your offering mask treatments in the salon or instructing your clients on how to carry out a haircare regime at home, Amanda Flory, Brand Ambassador for NAK Hair, offers her top tip: “Once a mask is applied, try dampening a towel and popping it in the microwave for 60 seconds. Wrap around the hair and leave between 5-15 mins. This little trick will help to open and soften the cuticle, and let the mask really sink deep into the hair below the surface layers.”
A Word of Warning
Whilst these products can offer amazing benefits, make sure you caution your clients on the possible downsides that can come with overuse – as there are a few – such as heavy and limp hair, brittle hair from protein overload and scalp irritation from blocked follicles. Likewise, as popular oils contain ingredients such as coconut, olive, burti, Jamaican Black caster oil, argan, moringa, jojoba oil, amla, rice bean, carrot, tea tree, Amanda notes that it is important to patch test these products on your clients, as these are often common allergens.
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