Cutting the perfect bob with mark hayes

Sassoon international creative director, Mark Hayes, shares his expert insight for cutting the perfect bob - and what to consider when consulting with clients who want one. What are the common mistakes people make when cutting a bob? The bob is in theory, the simplest haircut to achieve as it is executed by cutting a clean straight line. Of course, that simplicity belies the skill and craftsmanship required to achieve the perfect balance for the wearer. Excessive tension, over-direction and elevation can all distort the shape and throw the balance out of sync with the wearer. Without going into too much technical detail, here are my guides for a successful outcome on various types of bob shapes. A graduated bob is cut to accentuate the natural volume inherent in the hair. To be successful, a graduated bob needs to be cut to the hairline in the back with the graduation sitting just below the occipital bone and gradually diminishing to a one-length point through the front. It can be cut from a side or centre parting, but I think works best without a fringe. A one length geometric bob is designed to show off the natural lustre of healthy shiny hair. It is cut in the hairs natural fall and can be worn from a centre or side parting with or without a fringe. A layered bob is suited to many different textures of hair and is a less formal way of wearing an iconic bob shape. Generally speaking, the line is best kept slightly squarer with graduated layers working from the back to the front, terminating in a softly layered result that frames the face A side-sweep fringe adds drama to the classic bob and is ideal for creating a 'rock chic' look. It works best on hair with very soft, natural movement and is perfectly suited to a line that gently skims the shoulders. What are the common mistakes people make when wearing a bob? The appeal of the bob is that it can be tailored to so many face shapes. Of course, super healthy hair will take full advantage of the simplicity of the shape, so condition is paramount - especially when one is artificially altering the structure of the hair in the finishing process. Colour can also play its part in the overall look. One length and more geometric bobs suit more solid techniques that make the hair appear thicker. Darker tones work well as they tend to act as a mirror and increase surface shine. On graduated bobs, two-tone colouring works well with darker tones through the underneath to accentuate the dynamic of the shape. Layered bobs lend themselves to a more highlighted technique as it will add movement and texture. From a balance point of view, certain features like a heavy jaw or a square face can be softened by a side parting. A soft, face-framing asymmetrical fringe and/or gentle layers around the perimeter of the shape can also help balance out, or disguise, very prominent features. Conversely, prominent features can be accentuated to create a striking dramatic individual look. Therein lies the beauty of the bob!