Ageless hair at it's best – key advice on mature hair styling

An age-appropriate hairstyle is an outdated term. Here are some mantras to share with your salon team that will encourage your clients to be bold, bright and allow you to experiment

Mantra: Be mindful of the language you use in your consultation

Cos Sakkas, international artistic director and head of education at Toni & Guy “Let’s be honest, no one comes into the salon and asks to be made older – no matter whether they are 25 or 60+. Even if a client’s hair is ageing, they might not feel like they are any older. Make sure your clients they don’t feel categorised as anything other than themselves during a consultation. Always take into account their fashion sense and lifestyle. As hairdressers we need to make someone look on-trend without making them look try hard. It’s all about suitability and individuality. Never patronise clients by thinking you know what they want.”

Mantra: Grey hair isn’t ageing. It can still look shiny, healthy and radiant

Ceri Cushen, creative director at Metropolis Hairdressing “Grey hair needs more tender loving care, but it can still look healthy. When hair begins to grey it sometimes changes texture and can become coarse. This is a great opportunity for you to retail and promote your expertise. Suggest a moisturising range and a good heat protector to shield hair from heat damage. Also make clients aware that grey hair is prone to picking up unwanted tones from smoke, cooking and pollution so they might need to opt for a shine-inducing mask.”

Mantra: Thinning hair doesn’t mean a restrictive style

Hayley Jennings, co-director at Northern Hair Loss Clinic “While it is a normal part of the ageing process, thinning hair can have an impact on a woman’s self-esteem. It’s important not to generalise when it comes to treating thinning hair. There are various degrees of thinning, as well as various ways to treat it, and not all of them will appeal to every client, so treat each client on an individual basis. For example, some longer-haired mature women are perfectly happy to opt for a shorter, more flattering cut as they age to disguise thinning areas. Other clients may prefer to maintain their length and would rather explore options to add thickness and fullness to the hair such as adding extensions.”

Mantra: Don’t assume clients want to cover up their greys

Jason Hogan, celebrity and associate colourist at Josh Wood Colour “You can empower clients by helping them to go grey on their own terms. I recently had a client with 50% grey hair who wanted to transition to a full grey look. When hair is in the ‘salt and pepper’ stage you can add a little more pepper in the form of lowlights or more salt in the form of highlights to give the most flattering look. My client loved the result – and so did her friends. The following week I had three of her friends come in for consultations and subsequent appointments.”

Mantra: The menopause doesn't have to spell the end of 'healthy-looking' hair

Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist and hair specialist “A reduction in oestrogen and the relative increase in male hormones can cause noticeable changes to a women’s hair such as thinning and a change in texture. But there are so many options for clients. You could advise your client to discuss hormone replacement therapy (HRT) with their GP and use over the counter topical products to help improve their hair density. Medical treatments might take time to work, so there are options you can put to your client as a hairdresser to make a difference straight away. Why not suggest they use styling products such as synthetic keratin fibres that can be dusted onto thinning areas to camouflage the scalp and create the illusion of thickness. You could also recommend dry shampoo as the starch in the product can add texture and volume.”

Mantra: Never assume a woman of a certain age wants a certain style

Andrew Barton, creative director at Headmasters “It’s a misconception that as a woman ages she has to cut her hair shorter. Clients are often shocked when they visit me for the first time and I ask them to grow their hair for six months and come back so I can give them something more flattering. I believe as an industry we need to be more honest. I often meet clients who tell me hairdressers don’t tell them what cut they should have, and I think this needs to change.”

Mantra: You are never too old to try something new

Issie Churcher, colour director at Brooks & Brooks “One of the best parts of growing older is gaining confidence. You are less consumed by what your peers are doing and more focused on what makes you happy. I find some of my older clients are more adventurous, particularly when it comes to colour. I love adding pastel shades to my grey-haired clients. Soft apricot or rosy pink worked into hair through babylights or a subtle balayage looks great on mature clients. On the other side of the spectrum, colours that hold more intense pigment can make fine hair look fuller because they reflect more light. A persons’ natural base can also become ashier as they age so by working with intense tones such as mochas, auburn brunettes and honey blondes can add more shine to the hair.” Images – Courtesy of Hair by JFK This article originally featured in the March 2018 issue of Hairdressers Journal and was written by Charlotte Grant-West