A guide to keeping your client’s beard healthy

With nowhere to be and no one to see, lockdown became the ideal opportunity for lots of men to grow out their stubble and see what life with a beard is like. However, what many didn’t account for were the extra steps to take to keep that facial hair healthy. “More than 50% of men sport some facial hair now and many of them don’t understand the necessary grooming routine to avoid unpleasant side effects,” says Michael Van Clarke, renowned hairdresser with over 40 years of industry experience who has recently launched a new beard-care range called Best Beard. “Once the novelty wears off, lack of care can lead to some chronic skin problems and issues like ‘smelly beard’.” This can be caused by the beard trapping odours such as smoke and pollution, or by a build-up of sebum and dead skin cells. Facial hair is also prone to trapping sweat, meaning a potential build of bacteria, and can also lead to further issues such as flaking skin, beardruff and acne. With this newfound love for the beard across the nation, now is a better time than ever for a refresher on good facial hair maintenance for your salon. Below, Micheal breaks down some key areas to educate your clients on.

Cleaning

“Most men wash the beard area every time they bathe or wash their face, so advise clients to try washing their beards 3-5 times a week and warm water rinsing other days. The best thing to do is to have them to experiment with what works the best for them.”

Feeding

“Beard oil is great to recommend for clients with shorter beards, whereas longer beards can take a heavier wax to feed and control the hairs, giving a suppleness and pliability to the shape. In cold air, a client’s beard and skin will be more prone to dryness, which gets more severe the longer the beard is. Hair that is continually dehydrated and weakened will eventually crack open at the tips, and these split ends are uncomfortable and unsightly. Regular feeding will prevent this, and will also mean the hair is easier to brush or comb.”

Blow Drying

“If your client’s beard is long and you want to blow dry it either for speed or styling, avoid very hot settings that easily over dry and dehydrate the hairs. Keep a one-inch distance from the nozzle and stop before it’s too dry. Once dry, you can then apply beard oil or wax to feed and give finish to the hair.”

Trimming

“As with the hair on someone’s head, you can choose a beard shape that adjusts and enhances a perceived face shape. Brush it through first, trim small amounts at a time, and use high quality sharp scissors that slice through the hair without crunching the ends.”

Patchy beards

“Facial hair growth is largely propelled by the hormone testosterone, and insufficient levels, or unhealthy lifestyle habits, will affect this and dihydrotestosterone levels. Studies have found that these vital androgens (specifically DHT) have a direct effect on the development of desirable masculine characteristics, such as having a strong jawline, deep voice, and even facial hair growth. A healthy diet with sufficient protein and good hydration will positively influence beard growth.”