The story behind . . . hair extensions

Hair extensions are growing in popularity with the likes of Cheryl Cole sporting glamorous styles that offer volume rather than pure length.

Real hair extensions have raised eyebrows in recent years with some proving to originate from unethical sources.

Forward thinking hair extension brands are now ensuring that their natural hair is sourced ethically and clients can be assured that they are not exploiting others for the sake of long locks.

The public are catching on to the trend but where does the hair come from?

Sourcing the lengths

India

Indian hair is similar to European hair and is usually high quality due to the fact that it hasn't been coloured. Great Lengths and Racoon source their hair from India where shaving hair off is part of a religious ceremony. This is a voluntary act and it takes place after a celebration or an important event.

China

Chinese hair is thicker than European hair and is often used for wigs and hair pieces. Balmain sources its 100% human hair from China using a long established supplier who has collected hair for over 30 years. Selling hair in China is a cultural and economic choice as it is traditional for Chinese women to cut their hair off for important life events like marriage or the birth of a child.

Other Sources

Some companies use a variety of countries to source hair - American Dream collect hair from around the globe in order to offer a wide variety of hair types including South American and Eastern Europe.  

Collecting the hair

Fallen Hair - In some countries, locals collect hair that has fallen from the head each day, collect it over time and sell it on to local hair farmers.

Cuticle Aligned Hair - This is when the hair is cut all at once (while tied in a plait). This method is preferred by some companies as it means that the cuticles all run in the same direction and stays in good condition for longer periods.

Indian Religious Ceremony - Hair from the Hindu Indian temple Tirumala, where the traditional religious ceremony 'tonsuring' is carried out. At the ceremony, entire families shave their heads as an offer of thanksgiving.

Where does the money go?

Ethically aware companies work together with suppliers and communities to ensure that fair rates are paid for services. Some companies even offer food as a thank you to communities after the 'tonsuring' ritual. Great Lengths have a full-time employee based in India who ensures that money earned by the temple goes towards medical aid, educational systems and other crucial products.

Treating the hair

These are some of the techniques used by companies to treat the human hair

•  After hair has been disinfected and dried, it is combed through the large 'hackle' or spikes and tied into bundles
• Quality brands ensure that during the processing, hair is correct from point to tip, so that cuticles all lie in the same direction.
• Bundles of hair are sewn together onto a cotton strip, ready for de-pigmentation and de-colourisation.
• Hair is kept in tip-top condition by using a slow dying process, like the way that wool and cashmere is coloured.
• Hair is bonded in between keratin sticks that can then be separated and trimmed to form individual, hair extension  lengths.
•  The process is complete when hair is re-hackled (combed with spikes) so that it is tangle free and glossy.

 The Results

The treated, shiny lengths are sent to salons around the world, giving glossy, lengthy locks to A-list celebrities and the general public alike. By using companies that guarantee their sources, clients and stylists can feel guilt-free when wearing or working with human hair.  

See more hair extensions on the image gallery.