Skincare: winter skin

As the weather turns colder, fresh air is shut out and central heating is turned up – your clients may be nice and warm, but what about their skin? BEATING THE BIG CHILL Central heating literally leeches the moisture from the air, leading to dry skin, chapping and sensitivity, meaning your clients’ skin requires extra attention. During the cold months, exfoliation takes on an even greater significance as dead skin cells build up, clogging pores and reducing the effectiveness of moisturisers. Hydration also becomes critical and the choice of moisturiser may need to change. So, how do you counteract the effects of harsh environmental factors on the skin’s natural defence barrier? International Dermal Institute education manager, Sally Penford, looks at the composition of skin and suggests ways to protect it from future assaults. She says: “The skin’s barrier is made up of five critical components – corneocytes, water, natural moisturising factor (NMF), epidermal lipids and hydrolipid film.” * Corneocytes – in the structure of the stratum corneum, corneocytes are the ‘bricks’ – a water-holding protein complex made of tiny threads of keratin in an organised matrix. * Water – essential for giving skin its moisture and plumpness. * The Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) – gives skin its water-binding properties, and lack of it equates with dryness. NMF (which declines with age and is further reduced with UV exposure) combines with intercellular lipids to form the lipid barrier. * Epidermal lipids – these are made up of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids and help prevent trans-epidermal water-loss (TEWL), as well as bacteria from entering skin. Lipids are produced and extruded by lamellar granules and sebaceous glands. They are affected by age, genetics, seasonal variation and diet. Skin must generate 100-150mg lipids per day to replace lipids lost in desquamation. * Hydrolipid film (formerly known as the acid mantle) – it has an acidic pH 4-6 and activates enzymes responsible for the synthesis of epidermal lipids. It aids the formation of the lipid membrane, assists restoration of the stratum corneum (following mechanical or chemical damage), and guards against bacteria. “If lost, damage and infection may ensue, while reduction leads to impaired desquamation,” explains Sally. IMPORTANCE OF HYDRATION Sally warns that it is imperative to hydrate and protect the skin. “Left untreated, the effects of dehydration can cause conditions including: fine lines; the release of inflammatory mediators; disturbed epidermal differentiation that leads to an inferior stratum corneum; flaky skin due to reduced desquamatory enzyme activities; and, in extreme cases when inflammation is present, cracking of corneodesmosomes between the corneocytes will result. “Likewise, capillary damage is caused in two ways. In the cold, skin pales and extremities are warm, while in the warmth skin flushes and extremities feel numb – both have adverse effects on skin. “Equally, chapped lips result in thin skin and fewer lipids. Lips are also more susceptible to TEWL – so look for products that contain shea butter, vitamin E and oat extract, and advise clients to exfoliate once a week. “Sun damage also plays a part in loss of hydration, particularly if the client goes skiing, as snow reflects UV by up to 90% and sun rays increase by 4% every 1,000ft,” she points out. “The skincare mantra of protect, repair and nourish is vital during the winter months. However, when it comes to cleansing, advise clients to avoid soap as well as alcohol-based toners, and instead use products wit h milky, creamy formulas that are water-soluble and balanced to the pH of skin. Ingredients to look for include lavender, echinacea, raspberry, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5).” Again, when exfoliating, advise clients to avoid products containing hydroxyl acids with a low pH; instead, opt for acid-free exfoliation, suggests Sally. And moisturising is also an important part of the skincare regime. Good emollients are products containing shea butter, sweet almond, and seaweed. “As well as professional treatments, it is important to offer lifestyle support,” she adds. “To counteract winter skin, advise clients to avoid extremes in temperature; increase fluids; apply body cream straight after bathing; apply hand cream regularly (and to wear gloves); and to introduce Omega 3 and 6 oils to their diet.”