Reinventing the classics: designers with signature catwalk hairstyles
Published
04th Sep 2013
by
rachael
Most fashion houses have a signature piece; from the Burberry mac and Chanel quilted bag to Missoni's striped knitwear and Yves Saint Laurent's
le smoking.
While often routed in history and tradition, signature pieces don't mean repeating the past. Indeed reinventing the classics to make them relevant for a new season, a new audience and a new generation can be even more difficult than starting from scratch.
But it's not just the pieces on the catwalk that designers choose to revisit - signature hairstyles also help to build a brand identity and create a strong character for a label; one that can grow and develop with each new season, while still keeping the core values of a brand focused.
Here, we a look at some of fashion's most memorable signature hairstyles...
Valentino's braids
Plaited and braided styles have become synonymous with the house of Valentino, appearing at no less than five recent shows.
Such is their popularity, Valentino can be pretty much held responsible for single-handedly bringing the braid to a new audience for the 2010s; out with the schoolgirl and in with the street-style stars.
Guido Palau is more often than not the man responsible for the braided looks at Valentino, including the most recent reinvention for Autumn/Winter 2013 (left).
Side-parted and glossy and paired with a simple black leather band, this gothic twist on the naive braid was inspired by Flemish painters, the seventies and Victoriana.
To achieve the look, extensions were added before hair was prepped with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry Lotion and plaited in a simple three-section style, which was worn slung over the left shoulder.
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"The braid is part of the language of the beauty here," Guido told
Style.com. "They really understand what women want with beauty."
Burberry's natural look
The Burberry girl isn't one to fuss with her hair too much - a simple ponytail might sometimes be introduced, or perhaps a low bun, but as a general rule this house sticks to simple, gorgeous, natural hair.
As any session stylist will tell you, achieving the 'natural' look can be more difficult than even the most complex updo; getting something which looks expensive, healthy and glossy but at the same time untouched by human hands is no mean feat.
Session stylist Neil Moodie is the man responsible for defining the Burberry girl's laidback cool; always natural and not too 'done'.
For Autumn/Winter 2013 (left) Neil used Morrocanoil Volumizing Mousse and a few subtle extensions, explaining: "I'm going for a smoother finish than we have done in the past."
A hint of volume at the roots and crown and curled-under ends provided a subtle hint of sixties inspiration, as referenced in the collection.
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"The key word is always effortless," says Neil. "So it doesn't feel as though the makeup artist and I have been here at all."
Alexander Wang's cool-girl ponytails
The key word to describe the Alexander Wang girl? Cool.
She's sporty, urban and very New York, but ultimately she's cool and her hair always reflects this.
In keeping with the sportswear vibe at the heart of Alexander Wang's collections, ponytails are usually the hair look of choice at his shows - and when they're not, it's usually something wet-look and sexy.
For Autumn/Winter 2013, Guido created cognac-coloured ponytails with a shiny, space-age feel.
"It's based on Irina's hair color," he told
Style.com, referencing model Irina Kravchenko's hennad shade. This deep red was introduced to every girl in the show through a custom-dyed ponytail extension, coloured by Larry Raspanti of New York salon, Whittemore House.
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"It's severe and simple-looking," said Guido of Spring 2013's taped-parting ponytails. "It looks more futuristic and takes [the style] to another level so it's not too simple." A message which could easily be applied to any of the sexy, sporty looks he's created for Alexander Wang.
Dolce & Gabbana's accessorised updos
Dolce & Gabbana are dedicated to the notion of Italian beauty and high-end sex appeal, so it's no surprise that their hair sticks to the same brief most seasons; glamour.
Making the stylists life slightly more difficult is D&G's love of hair accessories; from combs and tiaras to headscarves and bowler hats.
This season's Byzantine crowns were one of the most memorable looks of the season (left) - so did how Guido work around them?
A sexy undone updo was the answer, with volume at the crown and a short centre parting. "It's as if they did it themselves," he told
Style.com. "If you have volume up top and with the bun, they fight each other."
The essential products for the look were all body-builders; Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam mousse and Quick Tease 15 Backcombing Finishing Spray.
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"Dolce & Gabbana don't need to reinvent their woman every season," said Guido. "Bcause they really understand how a woman likes to look. They bring back all the little tricks to beauty that in years gone by we've thrown away; it's all things that really flatter."
Rodarte's punk princesses
The Rodarte girl had a distinctive edge and this is reflected through tough-girl hairstyles, more often than not worn slung over to one side and showcasing studs, spikes and statement jewelry.
Model Chloe Nørgaard (left) was the perfect choice for Autumn/Winter 2013's California cool collection thanks to her lime-green dip-dyed locks - the perfect showcase for that barbed-wire crown, which you can just see on top.
Stylist Odile Gilbert was tasked with creating a 'rocker princess' look for the collection - but how do you go about making that catwalk-worthy? Cool, undone texture and a braided rosette at the back of the head on this occasion.
Odile used John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse to prep, before curling the hair with a two-inch wand. Hair was then brushed out and plaited in sections on either side of the head to join at the back in
that statement rosette.
Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Thermal Protection Formula was then smoothed through the ends to create piecey separation.
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