Natural nailcare
POLISHED PERFORMANCE
The correct nailcare products, and an effective homecare routine, will help clients eliminate common nail disorders. Sasha Lill reports
The condition of clients' nails is a silent testimony to their physical health. Nail disorders can be caused either by an injury to the nail; disease; chemical or nutritional imbalance; or poor health and will affect every client at some time in their lives. This is why treating them immediately by using the right products is key to eliminating common problems - such as dry, brittle and weak nails.
SOFT NAILS
Weak nails that frequently splinter, peel and break are probably the most common nail complaint says
Susan Gerrard, founder of The Natural Nail Company - distributors of Jessica.
Why nails peel and flake
Explains Susan: "Nails are made up of keratin, which is the chemical substance that forms the nail plate, and is a protein made up from amino acids. It forms a strong yet flexible and protective material (that we know as the nail plate) and is made up from layers of dead cells that are stacked on top of each other. It is because the natural nail is made from dead cells that it is possible to cut and file painlessly. We have fingernails to protect the nerve-rich fingertips from injury, but sometimes the layers of the nail become dry.
"Nails can peel or flake because they lose moisture and become dry quicker than any other part of the body and so it is very important to keep them protected with a treatment base coat, colour and top coat at all times.
"The most common causes of dryness are:
Cold weather resulting in bad circulation
Not wearing protective gloves when using detergent
Not washing the nails after using nail polish remover
Over-use of hardeners/proteins
A low-fat diet and low iron or zinc levels will also contribute to the nail flaking Illness and some medication
Using the incorrect grit of an emery board and filing in a sawing motion will cause the layers of the nail to separate. This will result in splitting, peeling nails.
Allowing nail polish to chip, thereby not keeping the nail covered and protected with base coat, colour and top coat
"All of the above should be avoided to create a healthy nail."
Nutrient for nails
Susan continues: "The body prioritises its nutrient distribution, and because nails are not vital organs, they are one of the first to be affected by nutritional deficiencies - whether caused by poor diet or illness. In particular, protein, zinc and essential fatty acids are the most important requirements for healthy nails. An inadequate intake of protein can lead to nail weakness, so two or three portions should be eaten every day. Zinc is needed for growth and renewal of cells and it is important in the formation of new nail material in the nail bed. Essential fatty acids such as evening primrose oil are needed to form the structure of cell membranes and to 'lock in' moisture."
Treatment
Susan advises: "Make sure nails are permanently covered with treatment base coat, colour, top coat and quick-dry. If possible, paint the backs of the nail across the tip of the free edge. At no time should any part of the nail be exposed.
"Never file on the surface of a peeling, flaking nail. If there is an edge standing proud, try to remove it with a damp cloth wrapped round your thumb. It is best to cut nails and only file very gently to shape them."
NORMAL NATURAL NAILS
Even healthy nails need some TLC if they are to stay in good condition, says
Tara Oldham, head of education for Lena White - distributors of OPI.
Maintaining a healthy normal natural nail
According to Tara: "This is done by protecting, strengthening and nourishing. As always, regular manicures contribute a lot to the health of a natural nail, but the homecare prescribed by the therapist can go a long way.
"A healthy nail depends on moisture as the nail itself is dead and doesn't have huge moisture content - regular oiling is essential. Use an oil rich in antioxidants and made from natural resources to protect the nail and penetrate deep into the surrounding soft tissue to encourage healthy growth.
"Therapists should always use an oil with a dropper to avoid contamination and prescribe the same oil used in the salon for the client to use at home.
"A nail treatment that strengthens the nails as well as protecting them from breakages will help promote a healthy nail.
"The growth and wellbeing of the nail is encouraged by regular shaping using a very fine grit nail file. The new generation of crystal nail files are probably the best as the grit is etched in to the crystal and is very fine. They don't encourage the nail to flake, split or peel and are ideal for gently shaping the nail without removing too much length. Filing the nails once a week will help to speed up growth and will allow them to be kept neat and tidy with a good shape that is less prone to breakages.
"Nail polish should always be used with a base coat to protect the natural nail from becoming stained. A top coat will help to protect the lacquer from chipping, peeling and fading. It is important to remove lacquer with a non-acetone nail polish remover to prevent the nail plate from drying out. Lacquer on the toes should be replaced regularly to prevent the nail from drying out and becoming flaky.
"Any clients suffering from dry, flaky nail plates should be advised to give their nails a rest in between lacquer applications and keep them well oiled - constant lacquer applications will dry the nail out further.
"Clients must oil regularly - at least every evening before bedtime as this gives the oil a chance to soak in and work its magic. A good hand-cream that penetrates skin and protects it from damage by locking in moisture will help prevent skin from drying out and looking old and tired. Advise clients to keep nail glue handy as any small breaks or cracks can be held together temporarily until they can be professionally repaired. This will prevent the loss of a nail, which can be painful and look unsightly," adds Tara.
Bitten nails
"Nail biting is an uncontrollable reflex and can have side effects," warns Jenny Wiles, Mavala head of international training.
"Chewing and biting nails can lead to both infection and also nail deformity. The hands are a hot-bed for germs and by chewing and biting the skin and nails not only spread these, but also risks germs spreading quickly into any open skin. Nail deformity is also a possibility, caused by applying pressure from the teeth over the delicate matrix area, which can lead to permanent damage."
Treatment
Jenny points out that: "Any infection will need to be treated medically by a doctor. Once this has cleared, a nourishing cuticle cream to remove any tempting, crispy, hard skin and an anti-nail biting formula would be recommended.
"Nail biting formulas have a very bitter after-taste so should quickly put off any chewing. Advise your client to keep an emery board with them at all times, as any small tear or rough nail left unattended will just be encouragement to chew and bite."
FUNGAL NAIL INFECTION
Fungus is a general term for a vegetable parasite that can deform the natural nail if not treated immediately, warns Nic Coomber, MD of Beauty Concepts International - distributors of LCN.
"Onychomycosis (a fungus that attacks the nail and spreads) reaches the nail plate from the nail bed, and the earliest sign of this is a yellow-brownish discolouration at the edge of the nail. As the infection spreads deeper into the nail, it may cause it to thicken and develop crumbling edges. Nails with a suspected fungal infection are highly contagious and should not be worked on, and the client should always be referred to their GP.
"Infections of nail fungus account for around half of all nail disorders, the most common cause being humid or moist environments. Toenails tend to be more at risk than fingernails, with swimming pools and shower floors the main breeding grounds for infection. The micro-organisms can invade the skin through invisible cuts or through any separations between the nail and the nail bed - those with diabetes, circulatory problems, or a weak immune system are at greater risk. If you suspect a client has a fungal nail infection, throw away all disposable files, sterlilise all instruments and thoroughly disinfect your work surface.
"Treatment of fungal nail conditions may be oral or topical. Topical treatments work in various ways, some offer a slow release of active ingredients on to the affected area and some provide a shield - most should be used daily until the infection clears.
"However, prevention is key, so: never work on a client with a nail infection; wear protective gloves; recommend clients return if they have lifting on artificial nails; recommend topical treatments daily if clients have a problem; wash your hands; don't walk barefoot in public places; and dry toes and toenails with a hairdryer."
