Long hair on-trend for men

  While many shorter styles, including fades, quiffs and classic side-parted looks, remain the popular choice for male clients, there is a definite trend towards longer styles on men. While many still shy away from flowing tresses, an increasing number are getting braver when it comes to length and texture. Here, a selection of top men’s stylists and barbers offer their advice on working with longer locks on men. Tracey Devine, Angels, Aberdeen HJ’s 2012 Men’s Hairdresser of the Year “The best approach is to rely on your basic knowledge of cutting long hair, regardless of gender. One of the main considerations is shaping the area around the face. This should be kept to a minimum as it can end up looking too feminine. It is great to use tools such as tapering scissors and razors to get a more grungy effect. I often disconnect any layering slightly to give a more manly look. Generally speaking, great technique and an eye for shape will help you deliver a brilliant long men’s haircut. Using face shape, particularly the jawline, helps to guide you to what suits them.” Jonathan Andrew, Jamie Stevens, London “We’re seeing a lot of longer hairstyles filtering from the catwalk onto the high street. Many clients are growing out their previous shorter styles into longer looks with flowing, natural texture. Nothing is too done, or loaded with product. Layers, texture and soft undercuts are worked into longer hairstyles to reduce bulk, and make it easy to tuck the hair behind the ears. “On longer hair, we’re using gel waxes and workable creams, staying away from traditional waxes, gels or hard clays. Leave-in conditioners tame any bulk, for a flatter, more controlled finish. It’s also an opportunity to play with subtle, freehand colouring techniques for a sun-kissed feel, without being obvious. “Even shorter hairstyles are working with longer lengths, especially undone, dishevelled quiffs with maximum volume. From One Direction and Union J to Lawson, it’s all about emphasising the top area with length, volume and texture for a 1950s’ rock ‘n’ roll influence. “Working with a blow-dry cream provides control yet flexibility when drying the hair back and up in the direction it’s meant to sit. To perfect this look, I rub a workable clay onto my fingers and shoe shine it through the hair to give it that ‘undone but done’ look.” James Beattie, Beattie’s & Co Barbers in Brynmawr and Abergavenny, Wales – NHF Barbers Elite Art Team manager “In my two barber shops. we are doing a lot of slicked-back undercut looks. A few are rocking the mod haircut or curls on top and we are always getting requests for the surfer look. “We are finding that we are using more unisex products on men. Texture sprays are fantastic for the surfer/beach look. They provide brilliant movement but you can still run your fingers through the hair. A firm hold finishing hairspray is another one of my favourites for the jagged edges of the mod styles, and keeping hair fixed into position. “For the slicked-back undercuts, we’re using a straightening fluid that gents find easy to use. The majority of men that come to our barber shops are low maintenance guys, so products that are simple and easy to use are better for them.” Tommy Cracknell, Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, London “Bradley Cooper, Johnny Depp and Caleb from Kings of Leon are all male celebrities flying the flag for longer hair. The general rule for a long, yet masculine haircut is that the style should still have an element of sharpness. So, no choppy layers otherwise the end result will have a soft, fluffy finish. “With Bradley Cooper, although his hair is quite long, the edges are very trim around the sides of his face, from the top of his ears right down to his side burns. Teamed with length on top, this cut not only offers styling flexibility, but it also helps to provide an edge of masculinity. The rest of his hair has long layers cut in, which helps to lift the style. This cut looks great slicked back in one direction. Use products such as gels and matte waxes if you’re looking to recreate Bradley’s look on a client. “For hair that’s worn longer towards the sides, you should work with the hair’s natural texture to create a style that doesn’t look too forced. Long, blunt layers are important again as it helps to give the style a more defined shape. “A great finishing touch to any long style is a touch of facial hair. Whether it’s a strong, thick beard to accentuate the jawline or something more tapered, nothing’s more masculine than facial hair, plus it’s a fantastic way to update a look.” Jody Taylor, international art director, Toni & Guy “With long hair it’s important to make sure men have the right cut to suit their face shape. Face-flattering layers can help emphasise eyes, cheekbones and jawlines, while messily cut softer layers create a rough masculine texture that adds edge to longer locks. Long hair needs to be looked after so preparation is key. Make sure to cleanse and condition regularly.” Dan Gregory, Man Made London “Longer hair is a trend that is always on the verge of coming into men’s fashion. I would recommend that you don’t go too long. Once hair reaches the shoulders it can get more feminine so keep it over the ears and make sure that it’s still a square shape to keep it masculine. Go shorter at the crown (I call it a halo section) to allow movement if you want the surfer look, for instance. Finish the edges with a texture razor so it’s kept natural.”