Lisa shepherd explains how to get highlights right
International colour ambassador for Clynol and Schwarzkopf Professional Lisa Shepherd gives her troubleshooting tips for offering the best possible highlighting service.
What are some of the biggest mistakes hairdressers make when it comes to highlights?
The most common mistake is to cram in too many highlights, giving clients hideous roots from day one. I know this is great for return business, as clients have to come back more quickly, but they soon get bored and jump ship.
It's all about enhancing people's natural colour and not overtaking it. I can assure you that if you get a client rebooking every eight weeks, they will never leave your business and they will love you for it, thus booking up forever!
What are the key trends for this season when it comes to highlights?
Shimmery lights are a must for autumn/winter 2008. Mixed-up variations of similar tones that are beautifully and cleverly placed are key. Block colour is another big trend, but it has to have a mix of highlights that aren't too visible. The secret is to get everything to blend together.
What are the worst highlights fashion faux-pas?
Stripes. Whoever's still doing copper and blonde stripes - please stop!
When is it right to use bleach?
When you want a super-light, clean, full-on look. There are some great high-lift tints around, but if you want any power to your blonde you have to support your combination of tones with soft slices of bleach too.
When is it wrong to use bleach?
If the hair is brittle and you don't think it'll be able to stand bleach, don't use it. Offer help and guidance and treatments to strengthen the hair, and be honest with the client, explaining why you can't bleach their hair.
When are high-lift tints the best option?
If you have the perfect base colour to start with and it just needs a bit of help, high-lift tints are great. They're fab to weave in and around other tones, but be careful if you're using them on their own for a full head as they can end up looking yellow, no matter how much ash or blue tone you mix in to control that unwanted warmth.
How are toners best used?
I think they're the icing on the cake when it comes to highlights, but it's a real skill to get toners right. I use semi-permanent colours, coloured mousses, toners and tone shots, most of which literally just hit the hair then are rinsed off. The client will then take the product home and top it up herself in between appointments. I think it's the key to great-looking colour and shine right up until their next appointment.
How can you decide whether a client needs warm or cool highlights?
I think sometimes people over-complicate this. My advice is to look at the client and ask her questions such as: does she tan well or burn in the sun? Does she have sensitive skin? Does she prefer silver or gold jewellery? Also take into account the colour of her eyes.
As a rule if she burns in the sun and has blue eyes, she's cool. If she tans well and has brown or hazel eyes, she's warm. Some clients do cross over and can wear either cool or warm, or both at the same time, but they're the lucky few.
