Backstage at London Fashion Week AW24

Published 18th Sep 2024 by Sian Jones

As the fashion world turned its gaze to London, hair took centre stage, shaping the narrative of style in innovative ways.

At London Fashion Week, hair remains one of the most influential aspects of the season, setting trends that ripple far beyond the runway and into the salon. From wet-look waves and 60s inspired volume to undone texture and sculpted shapes hairstylists transformed models’ hair into wearable art.

Take a look at Hairdressers Journal International’s highlights:

TONI&GUY International Artistic Director, Efi Davies, for Tolu Coker using LABEL.M Personalised Haircare

International Artistic Director Efi Davies and the TONI&GUY Session Team were tasked to create 30 bespoke wigs for the models that walked and danced the runway. The inspiration looked to how the designer’s mother would dress her own hair during the 60s, in a modern, fresh and fun way.

TONI&GUY Global Creative Director, Cos Sakkas, for Paul Costelloe using LABEL.M Personalised Haircare

TONI&GUY’s Global Creative Director Cos Sakkas and the TON&GUY Session Team created looks inspired by the volume and decadence of The high-society in the 1960s and 1970s. These looks reflect the sophistication of Capote’s circle of socialites, often referred to as his “swans.”

TONI&GUY International Artistic Director, Elle Page, for Patrick Mcdowell using LABEL.M Personalised Haircare

International Artistic Director Elle Page and the TONI&GUY Session Team used LABEL.M Fashion Edition Wax Spray to create an undone textured look reminiscent of the 1920’s and 1930’s.

TONI&GUY International Artistic Director, Efi Davies, for DI PETSA using LABEL.M Personalised Haircare

The hair created by International Artistic Director, Efi Davies and the TONI&GUY Session reimagined the brand’s signature wet look, perfectly capturing the designer’s Summer theme through a style style evoked the natural effect of models emerging from the sea and lounging on the sand. The hair was beautiful, effortless and achieved by wetting the hair down with LABEL.M Sea Salt Spray and using LABEL.M Gel to apply the sand before securing with LABEL.M Hairspray.

BaBylissPRO, Hair Ambassador Syd Hayes, for Bora Aksu with new Babyliss PRO STILISTA

“The 60s beehive has always been iconic, but for this show we’ve given it a fresh, slightly more modern twist. It’s less polished and more effortless, playing with wavy fringes and textured wispy ends. We wanted to create a cool undone vibe but still keeping that big 60s volume, and all the retro glamour,” Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO

Hair was prepped with thickening spray, blow-dried into the hair using the BaBylissPRO Falco dryer. Depending on the texture, hair was stretched out using the Falco’s Pik attachment. To create a sleek and shiny base for the look, Syd and the team used the new BaBylissPRO STILISTA, gliding the hair through the styler’s titanium plates. The hair was backcombed to achieve true 60s volume, and shaped into a beehive, with hair tucked in at the back to create an undercut look. Imperfections and wispy flyaway hairs were encouraged to create a cool and modern softness to this classic iconic look. The SS25 Bora Aksu collection was dedicated to the designer’s late mama, and the hair look created by Syd Hayes was a special nod to her signature 60s style.

Revlon Professional UKI Artistic Ambassador, Danilo Giangreco, for Yuhan Wang

Danilo showcased empowering hairstyles that fused femininity and glamour. He prepped the hair using Revlon Professional StyleMasters Root Lift Spray spritzing all the way through the roots to create maximum grip. He followed up by applying Revlon Professional Modular Mousse Number 2 from the StyleMasters Range through the lengths and ends before blasting dry. Once dry, hair was then secured into two ponytails, one at the top of the head and one at the nape of the neck, tonging the loose sections using a chopstick wand. After the hair was set, Revlon Professional StyleMasters Modular Spray was used on the hair before dressing out the curls and securing into buns, leaving out small pieces of hair to create a loose element. On some models, Danilo embraced the natural texture of the hair, creating styles that mimicked a strong, female figure with a post-workout look that blended glamour and femininity. On shorter haired models, hair was prepped using Revlon Professional Modular Mousse before finishing using Revlon Professional Reset Dry Shampoo to add effortless texture. Danilo Giangreco commented: “The brief for Yuhan Wang’s SS 25 collection was to create hair that empowered the models and made them feel strong. Using the Revlon Professional range, we took traditional workout hairstyles but added an effortless and glamorous twist, ensuring the look remained feminine but powerful to complement Yuhan’s statement designs.”

Sam McKnight, Sam McKnight MBE, for Richard Quinn

“Sculpted shapes and silhouettes, French twists, chignons, always with soft brushed out finger wave in the front. An element Marlene Dietrich but who a modern twist. Sometimes we added a veil for drama, tulip-sequel, contouring the nape forming a soft architectural shape at the top,” Sam McKnight, MBE

To achieve Sam’s soft and strong, modern glamour look, mist Superlift into roots at the top and blow-dry with lift for root volume. Mist Modern Hairspray to heat protect and give hold onto each section before curling on a small 16mm curling tong. Clip to hold and leave to cool. Smooth remaining hair into a ponytail at the back of the head and twist into a French pleat, pinning to secure. Remove clips at the top, smooth through Dressed to Kill for shine and to de-fluff. Comb into finger waves and gently pull apart for volume.

Bumble and bumble., hair lead Cyndia Harvey, for Simone Rocha

This season, the collection draws inspiration from the realms of play and performance.

This inspiration is reflected in the hair design by Cyndia Harvey using Bumble and bumble, which takes the form of a semi-updo. The hair is gathered at the back and crisscrossed at the crown, forming a dome-like shape that combines the essence of couture with a naive, playful touch. To get the look begin by applying Bumble and bumble Thickening Full Form Soft Mousse to the roots and lengths of the hair. Finger-dry the hair on medium heat. Next part the hair down the middle, from the front to the nape of the neck, creating two sections. Use a grip to secure the front section away from the face. Apply Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode to lift the first half of the hair upwards and secure it at the crown. Repeat this process on the opposite side. With both sections secured at the crown, the lengths of the hair will frame the face. Create loose waves or twists with this hair, tucking it behind the ears. Finish the look with Simone Rocha’s signature hair clips and Bumble and bumble Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray.

Bumble and bumble., hair lead Aaron Firmstone, for Dreaming Eli

Inspiration for Dreaming Eli came from the SS25 collection titled Mother of Pearl, Daughter of Flesh. Aaron worked closely with designer Elisa to craft renaissance wave hair looks for the show – curating waves that embodied sirens & mermaids who have stepped out of the ocean, daydreaming on rocks. Dipping into the recent resurgence of renaissance elegance, Aaron envisioned hair that floated like waves, contrasted against polished flat roots.

To get the look, prep hair with Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Long Last Styling Cream to smooth and hydrate. Follow with a generous amount of Thickening Spray from root to tip to give hold and memory to the hair. Blow dry then tong. Once hair has been tonged and cooled, work a small amount of Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Long Last Styling Cream through the lengths and ends for ultimate polish and refinement. To give a stepped out of the ocean, editorial edge to the look, finish by misting Thickening Spray on the root area and use a flat brush to flatten and compress the root. Lightly dry in with a hairdryer to set and add a glass like sheen.

Philip Martin’s, lead hair artist Gina Conway, for VIN + OMI

Gina created six show looks using Philip Martin's products, saying: “As this is the VIN+OMI 20 year anniversary show, we wanted to recreate looks from past shows alongside some fun new whimsical looks to showcase the future path of the fashion leaders’ vision. Collaborating for the hair looks with Vin and Omi has been so fun and creative as I needed to use my artist’s imagination, not just my hairdresser’s skillset to design these looks. I handpicked my team for their unique skill and passion for thinking outside the box. And when you get to know Vin and Omi, you understand that perspective is 360 degrees. Not what you are looking at now, but from past and future too.

Sian Jones

Sian Jones

Published 18th Sep 2024

Sian is Editor Modern Barber and Deputy Editor Hairdressers Journal International. She has over ten years’ experience writing for print publications covering Youth & Children, TV & Entertainment and Lifestyle. Sian graduated with a degree in journalism, and whilst studying was nominated for the Guardian Digital Journalist of the Year award in 2011.

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