Reverse hair washing: what the pros really think
Published
25th Oct 2022
by Josie Jackson
With reverse hair washing racking up tens of thousands of views on Tik Tok over the past few weeks, HJ went to the pros to find out what they think about the method, and whether you should incorporate it in your salon…
What Is Reverse Hair Washing?
Reverse hair washing is the process of conditioning your hair before shampooing – much like the ‘pre-poo’ method which uses oil or other treatments on strands before cleansing. The latter is often popular amongst those with curly hair, is it is said to prevent all moisture being removed during cleansing whilst also providing protection against the manipulation shampooing imposes curls and texture.What The Pros Think
Kirsty Tremlett, stylist at Gatsby & Miller and part of the Haringtons group, believes that reverse hair washing is beneficial for the hair, noting: “Usually we shampoo twice, then towel dry and apply the conditioner; the first shampoo will lift any product build-up or dirt from the hair and the second shampoo will thoroughly cleanse the hair. This is then usually followed by the conditioner, which replenishes the moisture in the cuticles leaving the hair a little flatter but moisturised.” As for which hair types Kirtsy thinks this is best suited to? “It’s most beneficial for those with curly hair, fine or thinning hair and oily hair. By conditioning first this helps to plump the hair with hydration and fill the hair follicles, which in turn will appear thicker. Those with curly-haired clients can follow this method with their specific styling products, and the curls will be bouncier, fuller and easier to manipulate.”
Having used this method regularly, Kirsty is well-versed in the best products for the job. “For fine and thinning hair I would highly recommend L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Volumetry shampoo and Volumetry spray to style, whereas for curly hair I would recommend L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Curl Expressions range. For all other hair types when thinking about pre shampoo and conditioner I would suggest L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Enforcer Mask for anti-breakage or pro longer to healthier longer locks.”
However, haircare is not one-method-fits-all, with Lisa Caddy, Trichologist at Philip Kingsley sharing: “The job of shampoo first is to clean the hair and scalp – to get rid of any dead skin cell build-up, dirt and bacteria, sweat and sebum. Then your conditioner is applied to nourish and moisturise (hydrate), smoothing strands and sealing the hair cuticle. By reversing this, you are effectively washing off your conditioner. It is no different to skin care. You wouldn’t moisturise and then wash and cleanse your face.”
However, Lisa does agree that hair care should be selected on a person-by-person basis. “Choose your shampoo and conditioner based on your hair texture and ensure that you wash your hair (shampoo, then condition) frequently to optimise you scalp health. Always remember a healthy scalp is a clean scalp, and conditioner is an essential step for adding moisture back to your strands.”
Likewise, Kirtsy does recognise that conditioner adds essential moisture to hair, explaining: “After reverse cleansing I will then go back in and condition the hair – for normal hair types I recommend L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert conditioner, and when styling the hair, I will use a lightweight leave-in conditioning product to help to protect the hair.”
